I%26#039;m about to buy a car with Salvage title and i was wondering how much does it cost in Ontario, Canada to change car title from salvage to rebuilt consider only the cost of inspection,,, thanks much....|||Hello there, I have purchased a car from a salvage auction in Manitoba, and you have to pass 2 Inspections, your normal Safety- Mec Inspection and a BII( Body Integrity Inspection) thats to check body around for rust and frame damage. usually shops will give you a deal if you get the Safety inspection and the BII at the same time, if you bring the papers that show that your vehicle passed all the inspections your title will be changed from salvage to rebuilt.
the price of that inspection here its around 300
Sunday, 5 June 2011
Changing car registration?
I brought a car and it was put in my friends%26#039; name but the car loan is in my name can i change the registration to my name I pay everything!!|||I am curious why you had this arrangement done, anyway, you will have to go thru the financial company that processed the loan because they have the title to the vehicle. Both you and your friend have to be present to accomplish this as signatures will be required. Normally, Banks and other financial institutions will be able to change the title into your name without you going to the DMV.
Can I change car title if the car finance under someone name?
Can I change the name of the title to me even though the car is finance under my friend? Or do I have to take a loan for the car in order to transfer the title? How bout go Beyond and add another person to the title?|||No. You would need to finance the car in your name. The person that currently has the vehicle does not own it (or have a clear title) so they cannot transfer it.|||will have to get a loan if you want car sorry they dont own the car to sell it the loan company does but sure you or anyone can sign the tittle thats just a name but still wont help with loan company and money wil stil be owed|||You will need the financing of the vehicle to be under your name in order to make any changes. If you want to add another person, make sure that when you are refinancing, you include that person on the loan.
Can i add to my sound system in my car without changing my stereo interface?
I want to put some sub woofers in my car and get some new speakers and an amp. I have an 03 Honda Accord Coupe. I%26#039;m trying to find out if i can do this without having to change the interface on my dashboard.|||The CHEAPEST way is to splice RCA%26#039;s into your rear speaker wires and then run it to your amp. my brother has always run his like that and there are no problems. IF your amp has the high input thats the way to go but if not the splice will work fine. the inside wire is the + and the outside wire is the -.|||no you gotta get a head unit. you need the RCA jacks in the back to hook up an amp which will then be hooked to the subs. speakers u can get away with still having the stock head unit but if u want them louder, get a head unit that pushes out more watts (x4) and if u want even more get an amp for them|||No you dont have to buy an amp. most audio stores as well as walmart sell a device that will give your factory head unit rca preouts. check out this link http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.d鈥?/a> it works on al cars and will give any stereo rca preouts. it a cheap way to give your factory some preouts to add an amp or two and a couple subs. i have one in my jeep and it works pretty well. i would recommend it lol . . . as a matter of a fact i just did|||Yes there are a few ways to add amps to a factory head unit. The least expensive ways are to use a line output converter (they are available at any local car audio shop or Best Buy), it basically turns your full range speakers into RCA outputs. Or if your amp is equipped with it you can use high level in (which basically means that you have a line output converter inside your amp). The other way is definitely more expensive, but is going to give you a much better sound quality is to use a factory correction piece such as a JL Audio Cleansweep or the Alpine Imprint. I know there are others out there but those are the only two I have ever used. I personally like the JL piece a little better, but I%26#039;m sure people would disagree with me on that one.
Changing car's coolant?
I want to change the coolant in my car. Can I just undo the petcock at the bottom of the rad and run the engine for a couple of minutes and let all the coolant run out and refill? or would this do harm to the engine?
If not what is the best way to drain the system. Keep in mind I%26#039;m an ok do it yourselfer.|||Don%26#039;t run the motor while the radiator is being drained. You stand the chance of overheating. If you want to make sure that you get it all out there should be a drain plug in the side if the block near the bottom. Each vehicle has it in a different place so it is hard to tell you exactly where. ( if you have a V8 or V6 you will have one in each side ) Just drain those and refill and you should be fine.|||yes do that but have another person filling it up at the radiator till the bottom water comes out clear, then turn off drain it all out refill with 50/50 or coolant and distilled water|||better not risk running it w/o coolant. just drain it by gravity and be sure to go back with distilled water to keep from getting gunk in your system|||the proper way is to leave the engine off and undo the bottom radiator hose. let the fluid drain out into a bucket because antifreeze is dangerous and against the ordinance in most cities to just drain onto the ground.
anyway, open the cap and use a hose to flush out all the crud that built up. then when the water coming out is clear, reconnect the hose if it is in good condition (doesn%26#039;t look mishaped or cracked) and use the correct type antifreeze to fill %26#039;er back up. i would run the engine when filling up the car so that it gets all the air out. when the fluid stops going down, close the cap. make sure the overflow is at the right level.
If not what is the best way to drain the system. Keep in mind I%26#039;m an ok do it yourselfer.|||Don%26#039;t run the motor while the radiator is being drained. You stand the chance of overheating. If you want to make sure that you get it all out there should be a drain plug in the side if the block near the bottom. Each vehicle has it in a different place so it is hard to tell you exactly where. ( if you have a V8 or V6 you will have one in each side ) Just drain those and refill and you should be fine.|||yes do that but have another person filling it up at the radiator till the bottom water comes out clear, then turn off drain it all out refill with 50/50 or coolant and distilled water|||better not risk running it w/o coolant. just drain it by gravity and be sure to go back with distilled water to keep from getting gunk in your system|||the proper way is to leave the engine off and undo the bottom radiator hose. let the fluid drain out into a bucket because antifreeze is dangerous and against the ordinance in most cities to just drain onto the ground.
anyway, open the cap and use a hose to flush out all the crud that built up. then when the water coming out is clear, reconnect the hose if it is in good condition (doesn%26#039;t look mishaped or cracked) and use the correct type antifreeze to fill %26#039;er back up. i would run the engine when filling up the car so that it gets all the air out. when the fluid stops going down, close the cap. make sure the overflow is at the right level.
What will happen to my no claims bonus if i change car before the end of insurance year?
I am planning to swap my car, but I have three months left with my current insurer.
What will happen to my no claims bonus? What will the insurer do? will they let me change car details with them, and adjust payments then let me carry on for the remaining three months?
I am hoping i do not need to start a new policy with them, as really need the no claims bonus to help with the cost!
Thanks in advance|||The only thing that%26#039;s going to affect your no claims bonus is by claiming on your insurance due to an accident.
Most insurance companies will let you swap your car but again, most will increase your insurance premium due to the fact that most people replace old cars with a newer model.
Check your paperwork but you will also most probably find that they will charge you an Administration Fee for changing the car details.
KD|||They%26#039;ll adjust your premium (up or down) for the rest of this year and it won%26#039;t affect your bonus. Make sure you tell them before you drive the new car.|||no claims bonus stays the same.. doesnt matter about changing car.. only effects ur premium|||Your existing policy will continue with the new car details. Your NCB will not be affected at all.
Any additional premiums are not normally added to the remaining monthly ones and as well as an admin fee on top they will ask for full payment of it up front when you call by credit or debit card.|||unless you are planning a complete lifestyle change you are ok/transfer the insurance from one to the other/never heard of the no claims bonus/why buy the damn stuff if you cant use it/what state is this in
What will happen to my no claims bonus? What will the insurer do? will they let me change car details with them, and adjust payments then let me carry on for the remaining three months?
I am hoping i do not need to start a new policy with them, as really need the no claims bonus to help with the cost!
Thanks in advance|||The only thing that%26#039;s going to affect your no claims bonus is by claiming on your insurance due to an accident.
Most insurance companies will let you swap your car but again, most will increase your insurance premium due to the fact that most people replace old cars with a newer model.
Check your paperwork but you will also most probably find that they will charge you an Administration Fee for changing the car details.
KD|||They%26#039;ll adjust your premium (up or down) for the rest of this year and it won%26#039;t affect your bonus. Make sure you tell them before you drive the new car.|||no claims bonus stays the same.. doesnt matter about changing car.. only effects ur premium|||Your existing policy will continue with the new car details. Your NCB will not be affected at all.
Any additional premiums are not normally added to the remaining monthly ones and as well as an admin fee on top they will ask for full payment of it up front when you call by credit or debit card.|||unless you are planning a complete lifestyle change you are ok/transfer the insurance from one to the other/never heard of the no claims bonus/why buy the damn stuff if you cant use it/what state is this in
How often do you change car brake disks and /or pads?
I am getting lots of conflicting information from different mechanics. There is noise in the car, and I am not using it much now because of it. I dont want to be charged to much for something I dont need. Would wear and tear distroy brakes in 30K miles (brand new), in heavy trafic?
How much do disks/ pad%26#039;s cost to replace. The stupid dealer told me 600 bucks. Yeah right. Any ideas or suggestions on national brands where its reliable and cheap?|||Well here is the most definative %26quot; that depends%26quot;.
You did not say what kind of car you have. In general the dealer does not beleive you know anything about cars so they can %26quot;take%26quot; you. Brakes jobs are fast easy and HIGH MARGIN.
Dealers are often trying to improve the bottom line.
That being said, Brake wear measurably depends on your driving style. Brakes wear quickly in two cases. Very good (ie.%26quot;agressive%26quot;) and very poor drivers. Poor drivers tend to drag on their brakes which heat them up and wear them out. Agressive drivers tend to use them hard which contributes to quick wear. 30K miles is not too much for front pads. I wear out pads on my pick up and minivan in 20K miles. The Mini and Camry go much further 35K and 60 K respectively. If you caught the required change before the pads broke down to the steel backer pads you do not need rotors. Do not let anyone change rotors without making them prove that they are either scored or warped. A simple pad change should be less than $ 200.00.
The only way a dealer could get to $ 600.00 is pads and rotors all around. That is excessive and probaby not required. Take the car to a place that will show you what they are talking about. Make them show you the pad material if there is a quarter inch of pad left you don%26#039;t need them. If below a quarter inch change them.
Make them show you the rotors and their condition. If they are not heavily grooved or glazed and discolored they do not need replaced.
I have had good success with NTB or Sears Automotive not lying to me( at least less than the rest). I%26#039;ve never used Pep Boys but do not have a good opinion of Midas.
A good way to find out would be to take it to a tire shop and have the alignment checked and have them check the brakes while they are in there. If they are after the suspension you might get a better opinion of the brakes. You should be able to get the alignment checked, tires rotated and an oil change in the $ 80.00
range which is not money misspent. The money saved in tires by having the alignment checked is worth the expence anyway.
Depending on the car again your OEM tires will be leaving you in the next 5K to 20K anyway. Anything which prolongs that change is worth it.|||try to use dealer pads, especially on late model cars.
30K is decent for front brakes to wear out.
brakes arent something you might or might not need. if the friction material is worn down to the limit, the car is unsafe and should be repaired. its as much of an issue as you want it to be.|||they all have a squeaker build in, change a the first sign of squeaking|||Yes brakes can wear out in 30k miles if their put under heavy wear and tear driving conditions. You can save yourself money by going through an auto parts dealer like Murrays or Autozone or Napa
You will also want to adjust your back brakes every 6,000 miles in stop and go traffic. It will help prelong the life of your brakes. Or use parking brake but this is depending on the model car. Check with your dealer. They will tell you up front.|||I hate to be the bearer of bad tidings but yes it is very possible to wear out the brakes in 30 k miles. If you ignored the noise and let the metal backing on the brake pads eat into one or both rotors than it could be an expensive proposition. The most expensive brake job will be at the dealer, but you will get original factory parts and knowledgeable labor for that price. But if price is the main concern try getting a few estimates from brake places like Midas or Pep Boys. They can usually shave 20-50% of of the dealers prices, but use aftermarket parts.|||This one%26#039;s easy. Generally speaking, if your brakes are noisy and there%26#039;s 30 thousand miles or more on the pads, change them. My sister knows how, it%26#039;s not rocket science. Jack up your car and get after it. Always do both sides and check the rotors for uneven wear, most mechanics (shadetree and professional) recommend turning the rotors whenever you change your pads. I think that if your rotors appear to have even wear and no unusual problems, you can do it every other time you change pads.|||The only way to know is to examine them for remaining material.
New pads cost about $20 and take a couple hours total to replace.
If the dealer replaces them they will turn the drums whether they need it or not. They will find a few other things to fix also.
The reason they replace unnecessary parts is because they have to warranty the work and people sue them if anything happens even if it isn%26#039;t the dealers fault, so they have to cover their (hind ends) politically correct for a--s. If you want to do it yourself or have a friend help, buy a manual for the car at the parts store, and buy any tool they recommend Book $20, tools $20 Buy the pads at the parts store , not the dealer. Most aftermarket pads are as good or better than the oem.|||It%26#039;s not that expensive to chang the pads. The rotors need to be checked to see if they need to be milled down that is where the cost comes in. $600 to replace rotors and pads is a fair price from an OEM dealership. I wouldn%26#039;t use Midas, Tuffy, etc. you see TV News shows doing undercover stings on these places all of the time, they always try to up sell if you need it or not. Get a good recommendation for an independant shop and have them do the repair. I have 63,000 miles on my origional brakes on my GMC SUV, still plenty of pad there.|||depending on what car you drive and how hard, but you,ve got your moneys worth out of those pads at 30k, discs prob change between 30 and 60k, as for 600 dollars your lucky, motoring is not a poormans hobby|||30K is ok for heavy traffic. You use the brakes four times as much as someone on the open highway.
Believe it or not, I%26#039;ve found Sears to be one of the most honest and fair for brake jobs. 600 is a little ridiculous. You probably don%26#039;t need rotors.
How much do disks/ pad%26#039;s cost to replace. The stupid dealer told me 600 bucks. Yeah right. Any ideas or suggestions on national brands where its reliable and cheap?|||Well here is the most definative %26quot; that depends%26quot;.
You did not say what kind of car you have. In general the dealer does not beleive you know anything about cars so they can %26quot;take%26quot; you. Brakes jobs are fast easy and HIGH MARGIN.
Dealers are often trying to improve the bottom line.
That being said, Brake wear measurably depends on your driving style. Brakes wear quickly in two cases. Very good (ie.%26quot;agressive%26quot;) and very poor drivers. Poor drivers tend to drag on their brakes which heat them up and wear them out. Agressive drivers tend to use them hard which contributes to quick wear. 30K miles is not too much for front pads. I wear out pads on my pick up and minivan in 20K miles. The Mini and Camry go much further 35K and 60 K respectively. If you caught the required change before the pads broke down to the steel backer pads you do not need rotors. Do not let anyone change rotors without making them prove that they are either scored or warped. A simple pad change should be less than $ 200.00.
The only way a dealer could get to $ 600.00 is pads and rotors all around. That is excessive and probaby not required. Take the car to a place that will show you what they are talking about. Make them show you the pad material if there is a quarter inch of pad left you don%26#039;t need them. If below a quarter inch change them.
Make them show you the rotors and their condition. If they are not heavily grooved or glazed and discolored they do not need replaced.
I have had good success with NTB or Sears Automotive not lying to me( at least less than the rest). I%26#039;ve never used Pep Boys but do not have a good opinion of Midas.
A good way to find out would be to take it to a tire shop and have the alignment checked and have them check the brakes while they are in there. If they are after the suspension you might get a better opinion of the brakes. You should be able to get the alignment checked, tires rotated and an oil change in the $ 80.00
range which is not money misspent. The money saved in tires by having the alignment checked is worth the expence anyway.
Depending on the car again your OEM tires will be leaving you in the next 5K to 20K anyway. Anything which prolongs that change is worth it.|||try to use dealer pads, especially on late model cars.
30K is decent for front brakes to wear out.
brakes arent something you might or might not need. if the friction material is worn down to the limit, the car is unsafe and should be repaired. its as much of an issue as you want it to be.|||they all have a squeaker build in, change a the first sign of squeaking|||Yes brakes can wear out in 30k miles if their put under heavy wear and tear driving conditions. You can save yourself money by going through an auto parts dealer like Murrays or Autozone or Napa
You will also want to adjust your back brakes every 6,000 miles in stop and go traffic. It will help prelong the life of your brakes. Or use parking brake but this is depending on the model car. Check with your dealer. They will tell you up front.|||I hate to be the bearer of bad tidings but yes it is very possible to wear out the brakes in 30 k miles. If you ignored the noise and let the metal backing on the brake pads eat into one or both rotors than it could be an expensive proposition. The most expensive brake job will be at the dealer, but you will get original factory parts and knowledgeable labor for that price. But if price is the main concern try getting a few estimates from brake places like Midas or Pep Boys. They can usually shave 20-50% of of the dealers prices, but use aftermarket parts.|||This one%26#039;s easy. Generally speaking, if your brakes are noisy and there%26#039;s 30 thousand miles or more on the pads, change them. My sister knows how, it%26#039;s not rocket science. Jack up your car and get after it. Always do both sides and check the rotors for uneven wear, most mechanics (shadetree and professional) recommend turning the rotors whenever you change your pads. I think that if your rotors appear to have even wear and no unusual problems, you can do it every other time you change pads.|||The only way to know is to examine them for remaining material.
New pads cost about $20 and take a couple hours total to replace.
If the dealer replaces them they will turn the drums whether they need it or not. They will find a few other things to fix also.
The reason they replace unnecessary parts is because they have to warranty the work and people sue them if anything happens even if it isn%26#039;t the dealers fault, so they have to cover their (hind ends) politically correct for a--s. If you want to do it yourself or have a friend help, buy a manual for the car at the parts store, and buy any tool they recommend Book $20, tools $20 Buy the pads at the parts store , not the dealer. Most aftermarket pads are as good or better than the oem.|||It%26#039;s not that expensive to chang the pads. The rotors need to be checked to see if they need to be milled down that is where the cost comes in. $600 to replace rotors and pads is a fair price from an OEM dealership. I wouldn%26#039;t use Midas, Tuffy, etc. you see TV News shows doing undercover stings on these places all of the time, they always try to up sell if you need it or not. Get a good recommendation for an independant shop and have them do the repair. I have 63,000 miles on my origional brakes on my GMC SUV, still plenty of pad there.|||depending on what car you drive and how hard, but you,ve got your moneys worth out of those pads at 30k, discs prob change between 30 and 60k, as for 600 dollars your lucky, motoring is not a poormans hobby|||30K is ok for heavy traffic. You use the brakes four times as much as someone on the open highway.
Believe it or not, I%26#039;ve found Sears to be one of the most honest and fair for brake jobs. 600 is a little ridiculous. You probably don%26#039;t need rotors.
Changing car title?
If I have a loan out on my car...I financed it can I change the title of my car to my mothers name? It would make my insurance alot cheaper if the car was in her name but the loan is in my name so I wasnt sure. My friend just did this and I know she has a loan on her car and she changed just the title to her mothers name but I wanted to double check|||In Florida, you have to state why the reason for the title change. It might make it easier, due to the fact it is in the same family. The only positive way to find out would be to contact the DMV Office where you live and explain what you want to do. They will give you all the information that you need.|||It depends, if you are in a state where the lien holder keeps the title, then you can not change the title without contacting your lien holder. Then it would be up to your lender since they have the title. You may want to contact your local DMV or Vehicle Registration office.|||It could depend on what state you live in. Check with the DMV office in the state where you reside.
How can I tell if my car's synthetic oil needs changing?
The manual for my car says change it every 5,000 miles or every 12 months, whichever comes first. I%26#039;m nowhere near 5,000 miles (got about 2,000 left), but it%26#039;s been almost 8 months. I took it in at 6 months for a change, but the dealership wouldn%26#039;t change it and said it wasn%26#039;t necessary. This hasn%26#039;t been a problem before, because once upon a time I drove 5,000 miles in about 4 months%26#039; time. But now, I live in Boston and I do nothing but stop-and-go driving, and I drive less than 5,000 in a year. The oil level is fine, but I%26#039;m not sure what to look for with the oil itself to determine wether or not it needs to be changed early.|||Look at the oil itself. If it is dark and dirty, replace it. If its still clear, you%26#039;re fine. City driving really puts a strain on the engine more than highway driving.|||There is no indication by simply looking at your engine oil to determine the condition of the oil.
If in doubt, change it out........|||I would not worry about it, My Buick has a change oil light that comes on when the oil needs changed based on driving conditions. The owners manual states to change the oil at least every 12 months. I would change synthetic oil after 7500 miles or 12 months.
Your owners manual is referring to regular oil,you can push synthetic blend a little more and full synthetic even further.
You can%26#039;t tell by looking whether oil is bad or not you have to send a sample to a lab to have it analysed like they do diesel locomotive and ships diesel and turbine engines.
If your oil is dark it is normal carbon buidup in your engine and not a indicator of the condition of the oil|||Take a business card that is pourous, put a dab of oil off your dipstick on it. The oil will be soaked into card leaving dirt and whatever particles that are in the oil. If it is too dirty change it, you will see what I mean if you try this.|||you should be fine with full synthetic. You didn%26#039;t say what brand it is. I use Amsoil in all 3 of our vehicles. It recommends 1 year/ 25,000 mile oil drains. here%26#039;s an interesting link that discusses how Europeans have gone over 10,000 miles on oil for years: http://www.amsoil.com/redirect.cgi?zo=14鈥?/a>
If in doubt, change it out........|||I would not worry about it, My Buick has a change oil light that comes on when the oil needs changed based on driving conditions. The owners manual states to change the oil at least every 12 months. I would change synthetic oil after 7500 miles or 12 months.
Your owners manual is referring to regular oil,you can push synthetic blend a little more and full synthetic even further.
You can%26#039;t tell by looking whether oil is bad or not you have to send a sample to a lab to have it analysed like they do diesel locomotive and ships diesel and turbine engines.
If your oil is dark it is normal carbon buidup in your engine and not a indicator of the condition of the oil|||Take a business card that is pourous, put a dab of oil off your dipstick on it. The oil will be soaked into card leaving dirt and whatever particles that are in the oil. If it is too dirty change it, you will see what I mean if you try this.|||you should be fine with full synthetic. You didn%26#039;t say what brand it is. I use Amsoil in all 3 of our vehicles. It recommends 1 year/ 25,000 mile oil drains. here%26#039;s an interesting link that discusses how Europeans have gone over 10,000 miles on oil for years: http://www.amsoil.com/redirect.cgi?zo=14鈥?/a>
How to remove the mirror cover of my car for changing the broken side signal?
My car is a Volkswagen golf V 2007. I have broken the signal of the mirror and i want to change it. I dont now how to remove the cover from that mirror. I am afraid of damaging it, so please can anyone help me what to do, or tell me if there is any site which I can see how do do it. Thanks in advance|||On the newer golfs you%26#039;ll have a plastic lens that covers the bulb and wiring for the turn signal.
You may want to go by this link for a better idea because it may involver removing the mirror glass, motor, and then fron cover to get the lens out.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id鈥?/a>
Normall with any car you should be able to lightly pry the lens out that covers the bulb. With a small precision flathead screwdriver (or any small pry tool) gently try prying around the lens, work it in different corners so as to not apply too much pressure in one spot.
However Vdub may get you more involved.
this link should shine some light on it|||You usually have to take the door panel off or open the door that the mirror is broken on and there should be screws ther to take the whole mirror assembly off. You can then access the turn signal lens.
You may want to go by this link for a better idea because it may involver removing the mirror glass, motor, and then fron cover to get the lens out.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id鈥?/a>
Normall with any car you should be able to lightly pry the lens out that covers the bulb. With a small precision flathead screwdriver (or any small pry tool) gently try prying around the lens, work it in different corners so as to not apply too much pressure in one spot.
However Vdub may get you more involved.
this link should shine some light on it|||You usually have to take the door panel off or open the door that the mirror is broken on and there should be screws ther to take the whole mirror assembly off. You can then access the turn signal lens.
Is it safe to slow down an automatic car by changing gears?
In manual transmission cars, the driver can change to a lower gear as the car travels downhill to save using the brakes (known as engine braking I believe).
Just wondering what would happen in an AUTOMATIC transmission car that%26#039;s travelling downhill, and the driver changes gears from %26quot;D%26quot; to %26quot;2%26quot; or even %26quot;L%26quot; to save using their brakes. Does it damage the gear box or engine at all?|||Providing you are not travelling too fast downhill you can use an automatic just like a manual.
Regards.|||EDIT: I don%26#039;t know what is bugging hruth, he sure seems to have a bee in his bonnet. Answers cross in being submitted so answerers don%26#039;t always have the opportunity to read the answer before. Now hruth says he is right because he is a mechanic. Now as motorists know you can%26#039;t trust all mechanics, some are good, some bad. Now he doesn%26#039;t say he is an auto transmission repairer and WHAT HE SAYS IS CONTRARY TO ADVICE GIVEN BY TRUE RECOGNIZED EXPERTS, including manufacturers, car manuals, lecturers, training institutes etc. Mark F %26#039; A shop manager%26#039;, not just one of the mechanics under his supervision disagrees with hruth. See his comment below. If you are on a long steep down grade like going down a mountain it is SAFER to use your gearbox than to be braking all the time. Not only does it reduce brake fade and brake overheating but you have more control of your car. Your brakes will then more efficient if you need to use them in an emergency. SAFETY is the main factor not saving a couple of dollars, life is worth more than that.
I was always told that the gearbox itself is not harmed by this. This information came from the owner operator of the major auto transmission center in a city of over 1.5 million. What you have to avoid is over revving the engine by changing down at too higher speed. Transmissions have a recommended maximum speed for each gear.
I researched this thoroughly after hruth%26#039;s outburst. Here is advice with sources.
Downhill grades won%26#039;t overheat transmissions but they are hard on brakes. Placing an automatic transmission in a lower gear will engage additional clutches in the transmission so that the engine can supply some compression braking to assist the wheel brakes. Using the engine and transmission to slow the vehicle increases vehicle safety by reducing heat in the regular brakes.
Going uphill, downhill, or into a strong wind, if you are loaded or towing a trailer, selecting a lower transmission gear will make the drive more enjoyable, economical and safer.
Jim Kerr is a master automotive mechanic and teaches automotive technology. He has been writing automotive articles for fifteen years for newspapers and magazines in Canada and the United States, and is a member of the Automotive Journalist%26#039;s Association of Canada (AJAC)
Engine braking does not consume clutch packs in the automatic any more
than any other shifting. in fact, it%26#039;s less wearing than a full power
acceleration shift. From Honda website
Periodically, we have tourists use their brakes exclusively to descend Pikes Peak (instead of using a lower gear that would provide the engine braking you%26#039;re talking about). The sneaky ones manage to bypass the mandatory brake checkpoint a little over halfway down (you have to have the temperature of your brakes checked by a forest service technician).
The reaction of a driver when their brake fluid boils on the way down a mountain can be poignantly pathetic, especially when the car is filled with the wife and kids of the driver. It%26#039;s almost a haunting effect to be driving up the mountain and have a car come rolling silently down the mountain and to stare at the terror filled faces peering desperately out the window. Obviously, a driver couldn%26#039;t possibly slam their car into park as it rolled down the hill at 45 - 50 mph. That would ruin their transmission. Better to shut off the ignition, lock up the steering wheel, and hope the car can withstand plunging off the side of a cliff once the first turn arrives.
The general rule of thumb for going downhill is to use whatever gear your car needs to climb that hill. You will follow many untrained drivers down hills that have their brake lights always on. Chances are they are either driving a auto in D from dream (drive) or in too higher gear in a manual. The car wants to race away and they ride the brakes excessively. Select a lower gear so the gears help retard the car, if you need to slow, brake firmly and then come off the brakes to let them cool. Don%26#039;t ride the brakes! (safe driver training manual).
My car owner鈥檚 manual advises changing down gears in the automatic going down long downhill grades. Why would the manufacturers advise this if it was harmful to the transmission? It is a safety issue, see the Pikes Peak item above.
Driving downhill
If the EGS control unit detects downhill driving, it will automatically shift down a gear if the vehicle%26#039;s speed picks up. This enhances the engine%26#039;s braking effect. A downshift is only effected if the engine speed is below the maximum speed of the lower gear. BMW 6 speed auto specs.
A. You can shift gears according to the road condition. For normal in-town and highway driving, use D4. The car will start with first gear and shift automatically to second, third and fourth. Use D3 when driving in heavy traffic. Use D2 for increase engine brake when driving down hill or for increase engine power when driving up hill. Use the first gear to provide maximum engine braking effect or when driving down a steep gradient. For more details, refer to your vehicle owner%26#039;s manual. (Renault car owners club adice)|||If it%26#039;s an older style auto, you%26#039;ll wear out the bands inside the gearbox that operate the clutch packs that channel drive between the different gears. If it%26#039;s one of the newer boxes that are actually automated manuals, then it%26#039;ll just wear out the gear synchros a little quicker.
Some cruise controls will gently apply the brakes for you if you%26#039;re too damn lazy to use the brakes yourself, and as far as %26#039;saving%26#039; the brakes, if you know how to drive and don%26#039;t %26#039;ride%26#039; the brakes, going down hills doesn%26#039;t wear your brakes out any more than normal driving on flat roads.|||the only time you want to do that is if your at the top of the hill at a dead stop choose the gear you want to go down the hill in and use that gear.DO NOT shift down while going down the hill.cheaper to replace the brake pads than the trans.you only want to shift to a lower gear while going uphill.all transmissions will down shift themselves when needed going up hill.|||That%26#039;s what its for. When travelling down a steep grade you are supposed to use D3 or D2 or whatever gear is appropriate to LIMIT your speed with engine braking. That way you don%26#039;t overheat your brakes, causing them to fade.
For normal driving on level roads DO NOT use the transmission to stop the car. That is what brakes are for.|||You can do it, however it is considerably more expensive to replace a transmission than it is a set of brakes.|||if going downhill and u downshift from drive to 2nd gear and your not running the speed that you would need to run in 2nd gear then all your doing is trying to watch the transmission fall outta the *** end of the car or just have it go completey out on you!|||on a long downhill run it is better to select a lower gear to utilise engine braking and keep your brakes cool. it makes no more wear changing up a gear than down a gear. caution not to over rev the engine|||Not a good practice at all ? Sooner or later the trans will be
affected or you are going to shift back to drive and wind up
revving in neutral or popping it to reverse...
Just work those brakes properly....and you%26#039;ll be fine...|||DON%26#039;T DO IT!!!! AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS GO OUT QUICK ANYWAY. GET A STANDARD THEN YOU CAN DO THAT
Just wondering what would happen in an AUTOMATIC transmission car that%26#039;s travelling downhill, and the driver changes gears from %26quot;D%26quot; to %26quot;2%26quot; or even %26quot;L%26quot; to save using their brakes. Does it damage the gear box or engine at all?|||Providing you are not travelling too fast downhill you can use an automatic just like a manual.
Regards.|||EDIT: I don%26#039;t know what is bugging hruth, he sure seems to have a bee in his bonnet. Answers cross in being submitted so answerers don%26#039;t always have the opportunity to read the answer before. Now hruth says he is right because he is a mechanic. Now as motorists know you can%26#039;t trust all mechanics, some are good, some bad. Now he doesn%26#039;t say he is an auto transmission repairer and WHAT HE SAYS IS CONTRARY TO ADVICE GIVEN BY TRUE RECOGNIZED EXPERTS, including manufacturers, car manuals, lecturers, training institutes etc. Mark F %26#039; A shop manager%26#039;, not just one of the mechanics under his supervision disagrees with hruth. See his comment below. If you are on a long steep down grade like going down a mountain it is SAFER to use your gearbox than to be braking all the time. Not only does it reduce brake fade and brake overheating but you have more control of your car. Your brakes will then more efficient if you need to use them in an emergency. SAFETY is the main factor not saving a couple of dollars, life is worth more than that.
I was always told that the gearbox itself is not harmed by this. This information came from the owner operator of the major auto transmission center in a city of over 1.5 million. What you have to avoid is over revving the engine by changing down at too higher speed. Transmissions have a recommended maximum speed for each gear.
I researched this thoroughly after hruth%26#039;s outburst. Here is advice with sources.
Downhill grades won%26#039;t overheat transmissions but they are hard on brakes. Placing an automatic transmission in a lower gear will engage additional clutches in the transmission so that the engine can supply some compression braking to assist the wheel brakes. Using the engine and transmission to slow the vehicle increases vehicle safety by reducing heat in the regular brakes.
Going uphill, downhill, or into a strong wind, if you are loaded or towing a trailer, selecting a lower transmission gear will make the drive more enjoyable, economical and safer.
Jim Kerr is a master automotive mechanic and teaches automotive technology. He has been writing automotive articles for fifteen years for newspapers and magazines in Canada and the United States, and is a member of the Automotive Journalist%26#039;s Association of Canada (AJAC)
Engine braking does not consume clutch packs in the automatic any more
than any other shifting. in fact, it%26#039;s less wearing than a full power
acceleration shift. From Honda website
Periodically, we have tourists use their brakes exclusively to descend Pikes Peak (instead of using a lower gear that would provide the engine braking you%26#039;re talking about). The sneaky ones manage to bypass the mandatory brake checkpoint a little over halfway down (you have to have the temperature of your brakes checked by a forest service technician).
The reaction of a driver when their brake fluid boils on the way down a mountain can be poignantly pathetic, especially when the car is filled with the wife and kids of the driver. It%26#039;s almost a haunting effect to be driving up the mountain and have a car come rolling silently down the mountain and to stare at the terror filled faces peering desperately out the window. Obviously, a driver couldn%26#039;t possibly slam their car into park as it rolled down the hill at 45 - 50 mph. That would ruin their transmission. Better to shut off the ignition, lock up the steering wheel, and hope the car can withstand plunging off the side of a cliff once the first turn arrives.
The general rule of thumb for going downhill is to use whatever gear your car needs to climb that hill. You will follow many untrained drivers down hills that have their brake lights always on. Chances are they are either driving a auto in D from dream (drive) or in too higher gear in a manual. The car wants to race away and they ride the brakes excessively. Select a lower gear so the gears help retard the car, if you need to slow, brake firmly and then come off the brakes to let them cool. Don%26#039;t ride the brakes! (safe driver training manual).
My car owner鈥檚 manual advises changing down gears in the automatic going down long downhill grades. Why would the manufacturers advise this if it was harmful to the transmission? It is a safety issue, see the Pikes Peak item above.
Driving downhill
If the EGS control unit detects downhill driving, it will automatically shift down a gear if the vehicle%26#039;s speed picks up. This enhances the engine%26#039;s braking effect. A downshift is only effected if the engine speed is below the maximum speed of the lower gear. BMW 6 speed auto specs.
A. You can shift gears according to the road condition. For normal in-town and highway driving, use D4. The car will start with first gear and shift automatically to second, third and fourth. Use D3 when driving in heavy traffic. Use D2 for increase engine brake when driving down hill or for increase engine power when driving up hill. Use the first gear to provide maximum engine braking effect or when driving down a steep gradient. For more details, refer to your vehicle owner%26#039;s manual. (Renault car owners club adice)|||If it%26#039;s an older style auto, you%26#039;ll wear out the bands inside the gearbox that operate the clutch packs that channel drive between the different gears. If it%26#039;s one of the newer boxes that are actually automated manuals, then it%26#039;ll just wear out the gear synchros a little quicker.
Some cruise controls will gently apply the brakes for you if you%26#039;re too damn lazy to use the brakes yourself, and as far as %26#039;saving%26#039; the brakes, if you know how to drive and don%26#039;t %26#039;ride%26#039; the brakes, going down hills doesn%26#039;t wear your brakes out any more than normal driving on flat roads.|||the only time you want to do that is if your at the top of the hill at a dead stop choose the gear you want to go down the hill in and use that gear.DO NOT shift down while going down the hill.cheaper to replace the brake pads than the trans.you only want to shift to a lower gear while going uphill.all transmissions will down shift themselves when needed going up hill.|||That%26#039;s what its for. When travelling down a steep grade you are supposed to use D3 or D2 or whatever gear is appropriate to LIMIT your speed with engine braking. That way you don%26#039;t overheat your brakes, causing them to fade.
For normal driving on level roads DO NOT use the transmission to stop the car. That is what brakes are for.|||You can do it, however it is considerably more expensive to replace a transmission than it is a set of brakes.|||if going downhill and u downshift from drive to 2nd gear and your not running the speed that you would need to run in 2nd gear then all your doing is trying to watch the transmission fall outta the *** end of the car or just have it go completey out on you!|||on a long downhill run it is better to select a lower gear to utilise engine braking and keep your brakes cool. it makes no more wear changing up a gear than down a gear. caution not to over rev the engine|||Not a good practice at all ? Sooner or later the trans will be
affected or you are going to shift back to drive and wind up
revving in neutral or popping it to reverse...
Just work those brakes properly....and you%26#039;ll be fine...|||DON%26#039;T DO IT!!!! AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS GO OUT QUICK ANYWAY. GET A STANDARD THEN YOU CAN DO THAT
Can a car dealer request to change car after financing approved and contract signed?
I recently purchased a car. After a few weeks of getting everything in to get financing approved the dealer has now called and said that the APR was a promotion for a 2007 model and they sold me a 2008. Do I have to sign a new contract and change cars after the financing has been approved and the contract has been signed?|||If they erred, it%26#039;s their problem. You aren%26#039;t obligated to this swap, you have all the documentation that shows it%26#039;s all good. They will simply have to pay the rate difference themselves and they dont want to do that. Sucks to be them.... if they accidentally overcharged you because they forgot about a selling credit or something do you think you%26#039;d have gotten the same phone call?|||No, I think it is time to report what is called %26quot;Bait and switch%26quot; to the appropriate authorities.
The dealer pulled pulling a switch on you after they baited you (and sunk the hook real good).
If this happened to me I would just call the deal off and look for an honest dealer, this one is not.|||If you have a copy of your contract, show that to them. If they still refuse to honor it, contact your local BBB and your state%26#039;s attorney general.|||If you signed the contract already, its not your problem. The dealership is the one who screwed up.
I wouldn%26#039;t even play around with this. Just document everything (including any phone conversations you have had) and go directly to the Better Business Bureau or your state%26#039;s department of Consumer Affairs.|||No, it%26#039;s his dumb luck. If he tries to pressure you further, report him to your state%26#039;s attorney general, or whoever is in charge of consumer affairs in your area. I just hope you do actually have the car in your driveway, or else you may have to hire a lawyer to either get the car or to get out of your contract and finance deal.|||read the small print if it doesnt say anything about it then no|||While I tend to lean towards the gist of what the other people answered, you need to clarify something in your mind.
Often, people sign something with their dealer that seems like a contract, but is actually something like a purchase order, and is basically an agreement that you are buying something for some amount of renumeration, but is not the actual sales contract, which usually accompanies the finance paperwork. What you need to ensure that you have correct is that you in fact have the contract signed by both you and someone at the dealership that is authorized to commit them to a financial deal.
I have always done the two actions (financial and contractual) at the same time, or bought the car for cash, where you only have the contract, and a bill of sale (title) - which is why I am a little confused. If you just have the contract, you need to make sure that it is the real contract, which is usually multi-page and quite explicit in who does what and who is responsible for what. Conceivably, you have a contingency contract, which says that the sale is valid if certain milestones are met, like getting finance approval. That all may be wrapped up together.
I%26#039;m not trying to disparage the other answers, I just want you to be cautious and not get yourself in any legal or financial hot water. You didn%26#039;t sound like you had done a lot of this before, so the tricks they use may not be familiar to you.
The very best of luck to you, and I hope all works out well.|||I see this as the dealer%26#039;s mistake. I think as long as the contract has been signed and the title is in your name, you should NOT go back and sign a new contract and change cars.
I%26#039;m glad you posed this question because I purchased a new car 2 weeks ago w/ a $500 rebate promotion and paid cash. The dealer called me back a week later and told me that I needed to finance the car through them in order to qualify for the rebate through the manufacturer. They said they lost $500 on the car and now I need to go back and finance it. I already paid cash for the car, and in fact, they already cashed my check! The dealer is still calling me daily and I keep telling them that I will not finance the car and the deal is done. I think I will take the next step as many have recommended-- report this to the BBB! Thanks!|||Everyone else is under the assumption that the dealer did something deliberate. I am going to say that I think they made an error that has not come till now when they tried to cash the contract. The Sales Manager %26amp; Finance Manager should have caught the fact that this was a 2008 instead of the 2007 that qualifies for the subventive rates. The error could have happened anytime during the sales process especially if you were payment minded or you were asking for the low rate.
What to do about it? If you are an honest person and know that people make mistakes, you would drive the car back and trade for the 2007 model that qualifies. However, if you want to hold to your guns, the dealer can buy down the rate to keep you in the car you are currently driving. It was their mistake and they may have to eat this one. Depending on who they determine was at fault, this one is going to come out of someone%26#039;s check.
It%26#039;s your decision, but in all fairness I would swap out for the correct car.
The dealer pulled pulling a switch on you after they baited you (and sunk the hook real good).
If this happened to me I would just call the deal off and look for an honest dealer, this one is not.|||If you have a copy of your contract, show that to them. If they still refuse to honor it, contact your local BBB and your state%26#039;s attorney general.|||If you signed the contract already, its not your problem. The dealership is the one who screwed up.
I wouldn%26#039;t even play around with this. Just document everything (including any phone conversations you have had) and go directly to the Better Business Bureau or your state%26#039;s department of Consumer Affairs.|||No, it%26#039;s his dumb luck. If he tries to pressure you further, report him to your state%26#039;s attorney general, or whoever is in charge of consumer affairs in your area. I just hope you do actually have the car in your driveway, or else you may have to hire a lawyer to either get the car or to get out of your contract and finance deal.|||read the small print if it doesnt say anything about it then no|||While I tend to lean towards the gist of what the other people answered, you need to clarify something in your mind.
Often, people sign something with their dealer that seems like a contract, but is actually something like a purchase order, and is basically an agreement that you are buying something for some amount of renumeration, but is not the actual sales contract, which usually accompanies the finance paperwork. What you need to ensure that you have correct is that you in fact have the contract signed by both you and someone at the dealership that is authorized to commit them to a financial deal.
I have always done the two actions (financial and contractual) at the same time, or bought the car for cash, where you only have the contract, and a bill of sale (title) - which is why I am a little confused. If you just have the contract, you need to make sure that it is the real contract, which is usually multi-page and quite explicit in who does what and who is responsible for what. Conceivably, you have a contingency contract, which says that the sale is valid if certain milestones are met, like getting finance approval. That all may be wrapped up together.
I%26#039;m not trying to disparage the other answers, I just want you to be cautious and not get yourself in any legal or financial hot water. You didn%26#039;t sound like you had done a lot of this before, so the tricks they use may not be familiar to you.
The very best of luck to you, and I hope all works out well.|||I see this as the dealer%26#039;s mistake. I think as long as the contract has been signed and the title is in your name, you should NOT go back and sign a new contract and change cars.
I%26#039;m glad you posed this question because I purchased a new car 2 weeks ago w/ a $500 rebate promotion and paid cash. The dealer called me back a week later and told me that I needed to finance the car through them in order to qualify for the rebate through the manufacturer. They said they lost $500 on the car and now I need to go back and finance it. I already paid cash for the car, and in fact, they already cashed my check! The dealer is still calling me daily and I keep telling them that I will not finance the car and the deal is done. I think I will take the next step as many have recommended-- report this to the BBB! Thanks!|||Everyone else is under the assumption that the dealer did something deliberate. I am going to say that I think they made an error that has not come till now when they tried to cash the contract. The Sales Manager %26amp; Finance Manager should have caught the fact that this was a 2008 instead of the 2007 that qualifies for the subventive rates. The error could have happened anytime during the sales process especially if you were payment minded or you were asking for the low rate.
What to do about it? If you are an honest person and know that people make mistakes, you would drive the car back and trade for the 2007 model that qualifies. However, if you want to hold to your guns, the dealer can buy down the rate to keep you in the car you are currently driving. It was their mistake and they may have to eat this one. Depending on who they determine was at fault, this one is going to come out of someone%26#039;s check.
It%26#039;s your decision, but in all fairness I would swap out for the correct car.
How to change car title to my name in texas?
I want to change the car under my name. I have a clear title. I have not change the car under my name because the vehicle has a expire registration. How can I get this sticker if the car is still not under my name?|||ask the owner
How to change car registration number in Malaysia?
I just bought a new car and register it yesterday through my car agent.However, i really cant accept my car registration number, that%26#039;s really the worst number for me. So, is it possible to change the car registration number? What i know now is i cannot change my number directly, have to buy a new motorbike or car then interchange the number. Are there any other way beside this? How long ot would take to process and how much the process fee? TQ a lot 4 ur help.|||Too late to change because JPJ had already registered your new car number. You should have forked out an additional Rm300 for the numbers that you preferred before registration process done.
If you are filthy rich then approached the car dealers to get it done for you for a sum of money Rmxxxx if you don%26#039;t mind forking out. Car dealers are expert in this field to get auspicious numbers.
If you are willing to pay more, the process will be done quickly. Do you really want to waste your sweat money?????
If you are filthy rich then approached the car dealers to get it done for you for a sum of money Rmxxxx if you don%26#039;t mind forking out. Car dealers are expert in this field to get auspicious numbers.
If you are willing to pay more, the process will be done quickly. Do you really want to waste your sweat money?????
Changing a car computer with same years and model but different transmission?
i have a automatic prelude 93 type si and a stick shift 92 prelude type S
i want to kno what happen if i put my automatic computer in my stick shift computer place. would it start...would it give my stick shift more power. would it ......|||If its computer, its reprogrammable.
Instead of changing it, would you consider reprogramming it for fine tuned? In dyno performance shops, they can specially tune the Computer chip for your car, so its programming is unique to your car specs.|||My best guess is that it wouldn%26#039;t do anything (wont start) because the computer in a automatic is completely different than the one in a stick.
i want to kno what happen if i put my automatic computer in my stick shift computer place. would it start...would it give my stick shift more power. would it ......|||If its computer, its reprogrammable.
Instead of changing it, would you consider reprogramming it for fine tuned? In dyno performance shops, they can specially tune the Computer chip for your car, so its programming is unique to your car specs.|||My best guess is that it wouldn%26#039;t do anything (wont start) because the computer in a automatic is completely different than the one in a stick.
Changing car brake or not?
I thought I needed to change my brakes, but my mechanic said it looks like I still have around 50% life left in them, what should I do? I looked through my rims, and only see enough space for a wooden toothpick in between the caliper and the rotor. I only drive street, and donot ride the brake hard, I average around 6,000 miles a week.|||Wait for the warnings..
when brakes get low there is a sensor that will start making noise. It%26#039;s a light rubbing sound and it stops when the brake is applied. The brakes will also squeak when they get too low.
I don%26#039;t think you drive 6,000 miles a week.|||if you feel that your mechanic is wrong, go to another and get a second opinion.|||thin as a dime on any pad swap them
i recomend wagner thermoquiet pads there great if you want to do it yourself read my 360 page for instrutions|||theres 1 way you can find out, take the wheel off and see how far the squeeler is from the rotor.if its close, i would change them. the squeeler will let you know when its time to change them.
when brakes get low there is a sensor that will start making noise. It%26#039;s a light rubbing sound and it stops when the brake is applied. The brakes will also squeak when they get too low.
I don%26#039;t think you drive 6,000 miles a week.|||if you feel that your mechanic is wrong, go to another and get a second opinion.|||thin as a dime on any pad swap them
i recomend wagner thermoquiet pads there great if you want to do it yourself read my 360 page for instrutions|||theres 1 way you can find out, take the wheel off and see how far the squeeler is from the rotor.if its close, i would change them. the squeeler will let you know when its time to change them.
Buying a car from friend, new driver need help?
I just passed my driving test a month ago and bought my auto insurance. My friend is selling his car to me, which is in good condition, for $2500. Since i am a new driver, I am not really educated in the process of purchasing a used car. And since, my father is on vacation he is not able to help me with this at the moment. However, I%26#039;m looking to do this on my own. I like to hear some suggestions on what exactly I%26#039;m supposed to do.
For example, changing car plates and car insurance. Thanks it would greatly appreciated.|||The very first thing you should do is not buy a used car from a friend. However if you insist on going forward, take it to a mechanic and have it inspected, it%26#039;ll cost you about a hundred bucks, and could save your friendship.|||you need to be 18 to purchase a car|||Make sure you sign the title on the correct lines. I have made the mistake of signing in the lienholder area.. That will cause you a headache, because your buddy will need to get a new title for the car before you can transfer it.
Once you have the title, you need to goto the DMV and show the title, your drivers license, and proof of insurance. You may need to know your social security number.
You will pay your registration fee and the sales tax on the amount specified on the title for the sale. If your buddy lies and puts that he sold you the car for $200, the state may blue book the car and tax you on its true value, or you will need an afa davit from the seller confirming the cheap price.
Congrats on your first car.|||It%26#039;s been a while since I have purchased a vehicle, but I have sold some recently, so it might be a little helpful.
You just fill out the title or change of ownership form, and the release of liability form. Then you turn that stuff into the dmv. I think you have like 10 days to do it, and get insurance on the vehicle.
It would be easiest if you and your friend just went down to the dmv yourself and filled out whatever forms you need, but he should have the forms already with his title. It just helps to make sure that it is all done correctly, otherwise it might take more than one trip to the dmv.
Then just call your insurance company to change the insurance over, they will tell you if you need to do anything more.|||Have it checked out by a (family? someone you trust) mechanic to find out what repairs you may expect shortly. ~
Go to the DMV (make sure you have insurance first, as that is required before they license it) and they%26#039;ll tell you exactly what to do.|||It depends on what state you live in,if you go on line to the Department of Motor Vehicles in your state they will have forms you can print out. The bill of sale may need to be notarized, real estate,or insurance office can do this for you.Make sure if the car needs an inspection sticker,that the seller has that done.Try to get a 30 day limited warranty,for major leaks,or trans failure.This is a Grey area since your a new driver and what if you break the car and want your money back,you end up on Judge Judy.Friends selling cars hardly ever turns out good.So its a good idea to spell out buyer and seller responsibility,and you should both go for a long ride together,when car is cold,and warm.It will drive differently at those temps.Look at the engine compartment see if paint is different color,also trunk and door jams. You will be driving different so the brakes may ware faster,oil may get consumed faster.Keep a close eye on the car for the first month,like check oil,and trans fluid,until you know the nature of the beast. Good Luck
For example, changing car plates and car insurance. Thanks it would greatly appreciated.|||The very first thing you should do is not buy a used car from a friend. However if you insist on going forward, take it to a mechanic and have it inspected, it%26#039;ll cost you about a hundred bucks, and could save your friendship.|||you need to be 18 to purchase a car|||Make sure you sign the title on the correct lines. I have made the mistake of signing in the lienholder area.. That will cause you a headache, because your buddy will need to get a new title for the car before you can transfer it.
Once you have the title, you need to goto the DMV and show the title, your drivers license, and proof of insurance. You may need to know your social security number.
You will pay your registration fee and the sales tax on the amount specified on the title for the sale. If your buddy lies and puts that he sold you the car for $200, the state may blue book the car and tax you on its true value, or you will need an afa davit from the seller confirming the cheap price.
Congrats on your first car.|||It%26#039;s been a while since I have purchased a vehicle, but I have sold some recently, so it might be a little helpful.
You just fill out the title or change of ownership form, and the release of liability form. Then you turn that stuff into the dmv. I think you have like 10 days to do it, and get insurance on the vehicle.
It would be easiest if you and your friend just went down to the dmv yourself and filled out whatever forms you need, but he should have the forms already with his title. It just helps to make sure that it is all done correctly, otherwise it might take more than one trip to the dmv.
Then just call your insurance company to change the insurance over, they will tell you if you need to do anything more.|||Have it checked out by a (family? someone you trust) mechanic to find out what repairs you may expect shortly. ~
Go to the DMV (make sure you have insurance first, as that is required before they license it) and they%26#039;ll tell you exactly what to do.|||It depends on what state you live in,if you go on line to the Department of Motor Vehicles in your state they will have forms you can print out. The bill of sale may need to be notarized, real estate,or insurance office can do this for you.Make sure if the car needs an inspection sticker,that the seller has that done.Try to get a 30 day limited warranty,for major leaks,or trans failure.This is a Grey area since your a new driver and what if you break the car and want your money back,you end up on Judge Judy.Friends selling cars hardly ever turns out good.So its a good idea to spell out buyer and seller responsibility,and you should both go for a long ride together,when car is cold,and warm.It will drive differently at those temps.Look at the engine compartment see if paint is different color,also trunk and door jams. You will be driving different so the brakes may ware faster,oil may get consumed faster.Keep a close eye on the car for the first month,like check oil,and trans fluid,until you know the nature of the beast. Good Luck
How often should you change your car battery and does changing car battery depend on CCA?
i just did an oil change in a honda dealer. my car is hond civic lx 2004. then they told me that my car battery was about 303 CCA and its supposed to be around 400 CCA. so its highly recommended to change it.
1. does changing the car battery depend on CCA?
2. how often should you change the car battery?
3. what will happen if i dont change it?
4. i bought the 5w-30 oil in walmart. they just used like one and a half bottle. i am so confused because the last time i did it, they used like 3 bottles. can that really happen??
sorry if my questions are really stupid. i dont really know much about cars, so..|||CCA%26#039;s are cold cranking amps. Each battery is assigned a certain spec. I am sure with yours at 303, it%26#039;s getting to the point of where it will most likely need replacement in less than 6 months. When you get a new battery make sure you get the same rating battery if the car is stock. As far as your oil, turn the car off and check the stick for proper level.|||Do you live in a warm climate or cold? A old battery will last longer in a warm climate. About the oil what size where the bottles? Generally, most engines will hold 4 to 5 quarts with a filter change.|||I feel sure that your auto requires at least 3 full quarts of oil for normal operation, and a complete oil change--getting rid of the old oil and replacing it with a new supply of oil--should require at least 3 full quarts of new oil. If a filter change is done at the same time, which it SHOULD be done at every oil change, an additional quart of new oil probably will be required to bring the recommended proper level of oil as shown on the dip stick. If you have a friend who knows how to check the oil level in your engine (stopped and preferably rested for a while) have him or her show you how to do it. If you have had a complete oil change along with a filter change quite recently, the oil on the dip stick should look almost as clear and it did coming out of the new bottles. You HAVE seen what new oil looks like coming right out of the bottle, haven%26#039;t you? As for the battery question--there are many things to consider, such as;
1. How old is your battery? Is the original (old as your vehicle-- never been changed)?
2. Does your alternator appear to be working properly, by the ampmeter showing charging moderately on the (+) side of center when accessories such as air conditioning, headlight and tail lights, windshield wipers, etc. are operating and the engine is operating at a moderate or more speed; and the ampmeter goes to the (-) side center when such accessories are operating and the engine is allowed to drop to idleing?
3. Checking under the hood, (you need to have someone with you who knows what he/she is looking for and what to do) is there a lot of corrosive build-up around the two terminals on the top of the battery (white %26amp; sometimes blueish crusty dried soda-looking deposits)? If there is, the terminals and the wires%26#039; connector clamps need, eventually, to be cleaned thoroughly and sprayed with a protective coating (you can find at Wal-Mart automotive) that will greatly slow down the build-up of such deposits again. But before you do that with the old battery. You and your helper friend find someone (if the friend doesn%26#039;t happen to have one) a vlot/amp meter that will check D/C voltages %26amp; amperages. Carefully clean the tops of the two posts on the battery and check to see, with the ignition turned off and the engine not running, what the voltage and amperage readings
across the posts (the positive post should have a (+) sign stenciled into its top and also its the one the RED wire is connected to) are for the battery. If the voltage is a good strong 12 volts and the amperage capacity is a good 50 amps., I believe the batter in its present condition is good--BUT--if the battery is one of the sealed type by which it cannot be inspected for the acid/water level in each of the cells, when put to the task of turning the motor over with the starter several times in succession or for extra-long cranking times, such as in cold weather; it might give out completely when you least expect it and it is the MOST INCONVIENT time. If the battery is 3-4 years old and the voltage and amp. capacity look good but you can%26#039;t examine the water/acid levels in the cells, I think you%26#039;d be wise to get a new one soon. But clean off any corrosion you find around the terminals and wire connector clamps and spray with the protective coating--old or new.|||Why the HELL are thay looking at your battery when it was the oil you wanted changed? Sounds like a ruse to sell batteries to me.|||For the oil, check the stick with the engine off, the end of the stick will tell you if it%26#039;s full of if more oil is needed.
As for the battery, my husband (a mechanic for over 13+ yrs) said that you don%26#039;t need to change it until the battery goes completely dead. It isn%26#039;t going to do anything to ur engine. When it finally goes out the engine will shut off and ur windows (or anything electrical) will not turn on until you replace it. That is it.
He also says that that is the dealer trying to get more money off of you. If your battery goes out, go to ur local autozone and they will check the battery for free. If you still have concerns, I would take it to autozone and have it checked for free. They will tell you exactly what it needs by pluging a machine to ur battery. You can either leave it in the car and drive it over there or u can take the battery out of ur car and take the battery to them. They will check it on or out of the car.
Goodluck :)
1. does changing the car battery depend on CCA?
2. how often should you change the car battery?
3. what will happen if i dont change it?
4. i bought the 5w-30 oil in walmart. they just used like one and a half bottle. i am so confused because the last time i did it, they used like 3 bottles. can that really happen??
sorry if my questions are really stupid. i dont really know much about cars, so..|||CCA%26#039;s are cold cranking amps. Each battery is assigned a certain spec. I am sure with yours at 303, it%26#039;s getting to the point of where it will most likely need replacement in less than 6 months. When you get a new battery make sure you get the same rating battery if the car is stock. As far as your oil, turn the car off and check the stick for proper level.|||Do you live in a warm climate or cold? A old battery will last longer in a warm climate. About the oil what size where the bottles? Generally, most engines will hold 4 to 5 quarts with a filter change.|||I feel sure that your auto requires at least 3 full quarts of oil for normal operation, and a complete oil change--getting rid of the old oil and replacing it with a new supply of oil--should require at least 3 full quarts of new oil. If a filter change is done at the same time, which it SHOULD be done at every oil change, an additional quart of new oil probably will be required to bring the recommended proper level of oil as shown on the dip stick. If you have a friend who knows how to check the oil level in your engine (stopped and preferably rested for a while) have him or her show you how to do it. If you have had a complete oil change along with a filter change quite recently, the oil on the dip stick should look almost as clear and it did coming out of the new bottles. You HAVE seen what new oil looks like coming right out of the bottle, haven%26#039;t you? As for the battery question--there are many things to consider, such as;
1. How old is your battery? Is the original (old as your vehicle-- never been changed)?
2. Does your alternator appear to be working properly, by the ampmeter showing charging moderately on the (+) side of center when accessories such as air conditioning, headlight and tail lights, windshield wipers, etc. are operating and the engine is operating at a moderate or more speed; and the ampmeter goes to the (-) side center when such accessories are operating and the engine is allowed to drop to idleing?
3. Checking under the hood, (you need to have someone with you who knows what he/she is looking for and what to do) is there a lot of corrosive build-up around the two terminals on the top of the battery (white %26amp; sometimes blueish crusty dried soda-looking deposits)? If there is, the terminals and the wires%26#039; connector clamps need, eventually, to be cleaned thoroughly and sprayed with a protective coating (you can find at Wal-Mart automotive) that will greatly slow down the build-up of such deposits again. But before you do that with the old battery. You and your helper friend find someone (if the friend doesn%26#039;t happen to have one) a vlot/amp meter that will check D/C voltages %26amp; amperages. Carefully clean the tops of the two posts on the battery and check to see, with the ignition turned off and the engine not running, what the voltage and amperage readings
across the posts (the positive post should have a (+) sign stenciled into its top and also its the one the RED wire is connected to) are for the battery. If the voltage is a good strong 12 volts and the amperage capacity is a good 50 amps., I believe the batter in its present condition is good--BUT--if the battery is one of the sealed type by which it cannot be inspected for the acid/water level in each of the cells, when put to the task of turning the motor over with the starter several times in succession or for extra-long cranking times, such as in cold weather; it might give out completely when you least expect it and it is the MOST INCONVIENT time. If the battery is 3-4 years old and the voltage and amp. capacity look good but you can%26#039;t examine the water/acid levels in the cells, I think you%26#039;d be wise to get a new one soon. But clean off any corrosion you find around the terminals and wire connector clamps and spray with the protective coating--old or new.|||Why the HELL are thay looking at your battery when it was the oil you wanted changed? Sounds like a ruse to sell batteries to me.|||For the oil, check the stick with the engine off, the end of the stick will tell you if it%26#039;s full of if more oil is needed.
As for the battery, my husband (a mechanic for over 13+ yrs) said that you don%26#039;t need to change it until the battery goes completely dead. It isn%26#039;t going to do anything to ur engine. When it finally goes out the engine will shut off and ur windows (or anything electrical) will not turn on until you replace it. That is it.
He also says that that is the dealer trying to get more money off of you. If your battery goes out, go to ur local autozone and they will check the battery for free. If you still have concerns, I would take it to autozone and have it checked for free. They will tell you exactly what it needs by pluging a machine to ur battery. You can either leave it in the car and drive it over there or u can take the battery out of ur car and take the battery to them. They will check it on or out of the car.
Goodluck :)
Changing car titles?
I live in Florida and I was wondering, is there anyway to transfer titles on cars with in a family. Like, my brother has a car in his name, and he wants to trade me with my car. So is there any way to trade the title between each other without paying for registration and stuff again.|||Unfortunately, no. Any time a vehicle changes owners it must be registered again. The only way to get out of it is for you and your brother to trade cars but not swap registrations. Other than that, you will need to go to the DMV and pay the fees.|||The only thing I can see you avoiding is the sales tax. These are usually not charged when the transaction is within the immediate family. Registration is still required and must be paid for.
Changing Car Battery - Extra Wires?
OK - I%26#039;ve done it - I wanted to show off to the bf that I could change a car battery. I disconnect everything like I%26#039;m supposed to - put in the new battery and connect the neg and the pos terminals. No power. When I looked again - i found 2 exra wires that look like they should attach to some terminal - they are attached to a very large black plastic tube - I think they were connected to the side of the positive terminal (attached between 2 nuts) but I%26#039;m not 100% sure - and I can%26#039;t call for help. so HELP!! Thanks|||yes mam they will connect to the pos cable trust me|||if you have no power like lights or no dash lights when the key is turned on. most likely those wires do go to the positive post.|||i think those wires are attached to each terminal with something like this see a mechanic you can get nasty zap from battery
I remember i changed the oil on my car i had a handful of nuts and bolts left over LOL|||Normally extra wires are connected to the positive (+) side of the battery.
However I believe there are still (mostly older) cars out there which use positive earth instead of negative, in which case the scenario would be switched round.
You did not say the make and model of the car but if it was a negative ground model then attach them to the positive side of the battery terminals.|||You should check the terminal connectors for corrosion and clean them with a knife or sandpaper. The extra wires may be for an accessory that was neveer installed on your particular car.
I remember i changed the oil on my car i had a handful of nuts and bolts left over LOL|||Normally extra wires are connected to the positive (+) side of the battery.
However I believe there are still (mostly older) cars out there which use positive earth instead of negative, in which case the scenario would be switched round.
You did not say the make and model of the car but if it was a negative ground model then attach them to the positive side of the battery terminals.|||You should check the terminal connectors for corrosion and clean them with a knife or sandpaper. The extra wires may be for an accessory that was neveer installed on your particular car.
Changing car in 2 years?
i drive an optra 2004, and in 2 years my rent will finish. Could you help me to find a new good car or truck enough big to put inside some handicap chair. and a good sheap with nice model i think to IMPALA so what do you think about my suggestion or tell me something else. i don%26#039;t want pay more that 35,000 canadian money. I%26#039;m sorry for my bad english but i hope you understand because i%26#039;m a french fry (lol)|||STICK WITH HONDA OR TOYOTA... CHEVY FORD DODGE ALL MAKE CRAP CARS.|||silverado|||honda pilot|||honda is a better option
How do you fix your car without changing the paint job in GTA 4?
I have this really sweet paint job on my car but I dented the front a little bit, and I want to get that fixed but I don%26#039;t know to fix it without changing my paint job. Is this possible, or no?|||this only works if your car is smoking or stalled out, and as far as i know it is not a cheat. Dial 911 on your phone and it should repair itself.|||I tied that myself but you cnat fix your car without having to get a paint job. I think that really sucks hard man|||you can do a cheat code to fix your car but you have to be in the car while you do this just pick up your cell phone then dial 4825550100 and call the number then you should see %26quot;cheat activated%26#039; on you top left corner of your screen by then your car should have no dents but it messes up your game acheivments|||no, there%26#039;s no way. Unless you use a cheat, but it does affect ur progress of getting 100% in the game/unlocking achievements.
Changing car automatic transmission fluid?
Hello All,
I have honda accord 2003 model, automatic transmission. I bought it from some one and I am 2nd user of this car. He told me last complete service was done from honda on 60,000KM, when I bought the car was at 69,700KM and now it is 80,300KM.
I want to know its now 20,000KM when last service was done from honda so is this the time to change automatic transmission oil?
Please guide me in this regard.
Thanks and Regards,|||It always pays to change the fluid at 20000 kM intervals. Also change the auto box filter.
I have honda accord 2003 model, automatic transmission. I bought it from some one and I am 2nd user of this car. He told me last complete service was done from honda on 60,000KM, when I bought the car was at 69,700KM and now it is 80,300KM.
I want to know its now 20,000KM when last service was done from honda so is this the time to change automatic transmission oil?
Please guide me in this regard.
Thanks and Regards,|||It always pays to change the fluid at 20000 kM intervals. Also change the auto box filter.
Mazda 323 BG 5 model car, how to learn about the timing belt changing? Car manufactured in year 2000.?
This car has been at a rental car service in Singapoor. When I bought it said only 43000 KMs done. So I have no idea whether someone had altered the digital milege reading.|||alldata.com - $20 subscription gets you access to the repair manual with detailed diagrams.
How often do you buy a new car?
I bought my car (cabrio) in 2001. Second handed, 1998 model.
140 000km=87000 mi so far total.
Don%26#039;t you think that changing car often is not environmentally frinedly practice?|||i like to keep my cars a long time. Keeping a car is like a pet the longer you have it the more you love it.|||I usually buy a new car every 3 years- I drive about 30,000 miles a year. If I drove few miles I would keep it longer.|||New cars run cleaner than beaters.|||i always buy used, its more friendly because its one less brand new car on the road and one less car in the junk yard. you will never get your money back for a new car. I always pay cash, never do financing its a rip off! I usualy sell my vehical within a year of buying it to make sure i get my money back for it and on to something new(new to me)|||I%26#039;ll keep my car or truck for 4 or 5 years or up to 80k to 100k miles. My truck has just over 60,000 miles and I plan to get something new this year.
Keeping an old smoking junker for years is not an environmentally friendly practice.
140 000km=87000 mi so far total.
Don%26#039;t you think that changing car often is not environmentally frinedly practice?|||i like to keep my cars a long time. Keeping a car is like a pet the longer you have it the more you love it.|||I usually buy a new car every 3 years- I drive about 30,000 miles a year. If I drove few miles I would keep it longer.|||New cars run cleaner than beaters.|||i always buy used, its more friendly because its one less brand new car on the road and one less car in the junk yard. you will never get your money back for a new car. I always pay cash, never do financing its a rip off! I usualy sell my vehical within a year of buying it to make sure i get my money back for it and on to something new(new to me)|||I%26#039;ll keep my car or truck for 4 or 5 years or up to 80k to 100k miles. My truck has just over 60,000 miles and I plan to get something new this year.
Keeping an old smoking junker for years is not an environmentally friendly practice.
Changing Car light bulb?
Recently replaced left rear bulb for brake light in Mondeo and it worked. However, just noticed that both dipped lights not working and front right head light.
Is it likely that I have caused the problem when changing other bulbs or is it likely to be a simple case of a lot of bulbs going at the same time.|||It%26#039;s coincidence.|||its just all ur light goin bad just replace them all..|||Please check fuses first, and make sure you put the right bulb in the light you replaced.is it a single pole or double, you can see by looking in the socket, if there are one or two contacts inside the socket, make sure your bulb has the same amount of contacts.|||Its possible that you have put a single element bulb in as the brake bulb instead of a double element type. Check the bulb, it should have 2 solder type points at the base and you should be able to see 2 thin element wires inside the glass. Also sometimes fuses can be blown when you change bulbs on the Mondeo. Check the fuses, if you have never changed them before there should be spare fuses clipped to the side of the fuse board.
Is it likely that I have caused the problem when changing other bulbs or is it likely to be a simple case of a lot of bulbs going at the same time.|||It%26#039;s coincidence.|||its just all ur light goin bad just replace them all..|||Please check fuses first, and make sure you put the right bulb in the light you replaced.is it a single pole or double, you can see by looking in the socket, if there are one or two contacts inside the socket, make sure your bulb has the same amount of contacts.|||Its possible that you have put a single element bulb in as the brake bulb instead of a double element type. Check the bulb, it should have 2 solder type points at the base and you should be able to see 2 thin element wires inside the glass. Also sometimes fuses can be blown when you change bulbs on the Mondeo. Check the fuses, if you have never changed them before there should be spare fuses clipped to the side of the fuse board.
Changing a car form japanese to american?
I want to know what is invovled im making a directly imported car from japan street legal in the united states/|||Step #1: post a $100,000.00 bond to the dept of transportation just to get it off the boat.
Step #2: make all necessary modifications to the engine/emissions system, safety systems and instrumentation. (if this vehicle is not imported to the U.S. by the manfacturer and no crash data exists you will have to subject at least five modified units for crash testing and they will ALL have to pass each test).
Step #3: come down to earth and just buy a friggin%26#039; car.|||We already have Japanese engines running here, from Mitsubishi,Isuzu,Honda,Nissan,Toyota and some more luxury ones, like land rover, Lexus,etc. Chrysler and GM have use or are using those engines also Ford., and what about Germans Koreans,Italians,British etc,etc.
Step #2: make all necessary modifications to the engine/emissions system, safety systems and instrumentation. (if this vehicle is not imported to the U.S. by the manfacturer and no crash data exists you will have to subject at least five modified units for crash testing and they will ALL have to pass each test).
Step #3: come down to earth and just buy a friggin%26#039; car.|||We already have Japanese engines running here, from Mitsubishi,Isuzu,Honda,Nissan,Toyota and some more luxury ones, like land rover, Lexus,etc. Chrysler and GM have use or are using those engines also Ford., and what about Germans Koreans,Italians,British etc,etc.
I am changing my car battery, but when i plug it in, it start honking do you know how can?
i stop it or what is wrong?|||i%26#039;ll agree with people that say it%26#039;s the alarm. Disconnecting the alarm system [which are sometimes hardwired directly to the battery] may be causing the system to reset as a failsafe against theft. You%26#039;ll probably be ok with using your remote clicker to stop the alarm buzzer. Take it to the alarm place you got it at, or any alarm installation place if the thing persists. They could reset the system.
If you DON%26#039;T have an alarm, then it may be indeed be the horn relay system...that may have been stuck, damaged, or the fuze blew when you removed the battery. Check your fuze box to see if any tripped, then take it to a mechanic to check the horn relay system. In anycase, ask if your vehicle DOES INDEED have an alarm you don%26#039;t know about. It may be that too?!
hope this helped...|||do you have an alarm? if so thats the problem, just connect the battery back and disarm your car alarm and it should stop.|||1) is the horn button stuck?
2) is the horn relay stuck?|||I dont know, and I am not being mean, but that is hilarious! You will laugh about it later.|||It%26#039;s the car security. Try using your remote. Open the driver door sometime that%26#039;ll work.|||they%26#039;er right. the alarm. all the late model cars with alarms reset when the battery is disconnected . the default when the battery is hooked back up is to turn on the alarm. I%26#039;ve been bit by that same dog
If you DON%26#039;T have an alarm, then it may be indeed be the horn relay system...that may have been stuck, damaged, or the fuze blew when you removed the battery. Check your fuze box to see if any tripped, then take it to a mechanic to check the horn relay system. In anycase, ask if your vehicle DOES INDEED have an alarm you don%26#039;t know about. It may be that too?!
hope this helped...|||do you have an alarm? if so thats the problem, just connect the battery back and disarm your car alarm and it should stop.|||1) is the horn button stuck?
2) is the horn relay stuck?|||I dont know, and I am not being mean, but that is hilarious! You will laugh about it later.|||It%26#039;s the car security. Try using your remote. Open the driver door sometime that%26#039;ll work.|||they%26#039;er right. the alarm. all the late model cars with alarms reset when the battery is disconnected . the default when the battery is hooked back up is to turn on the alarm. I%26#039;ve been bit by that same dog
How would I go about changing my car from my mom's name into my own?
Department of Motor Vehicles? Where would I go to do this and what would we need to bring? Would we both need to be there? Would it cost anything?
We put the car in her name by mistake...the car dealer suggested it so that I could get her interest rate on my loan but after I bought the car we realized we didn%26#039;t need it to be in her name she just needed to co-sign the loan, correct?|||If she%26#039;s the only one on the loan, the title needs to be in her name; if you%26#039;re both on the loan, it needs to be in both your names. If you want it only in your name, you would need to refinance the vehicle and take out a loan in only your name. Banks are VERY particular on this part.
Where you go to transfer title depends on what state you live in. Expect to pay a title transfer fee and a lien fee. You would need to bring the title.|||take the pink sales sheet with you to the dmv and they will change it for you and it might cost you 8 bucks. you will need both of you just incase.
We put the car in her name by mistake...the car dealer suggested it so that I could get her interest rate on my loan but after I bought the car we realized we didn%26#039;t need it to be in her name she just needed to co-sign the loan, correct?|||If she%26#039;s the only one on the loan, the title needs to be in her name; if you%26#039;re both on the loan, it needs to be in both your names. If you want it only in your name, you would need to refinance the vehicle and take out a loan in only your name. Banks are VERY particular on this part.
Where you go to transfer title depends on what state you live in. Expect to pay a title transfer fee and a lien fee. You would need to bring the title.|||take the pink sales sheet with you to the dmv and they will change it for you and it might cost you 8 bucks. you will need both of you just incase.
Changing car insurance beneficiaries during a divorce?
IS IT TRUE THAT MY SOON-TO-BE EX HUSBAND CAN%26#039;T CHANGE OUR CAR INSURANCE POLICY UNTIL OUR DIVORCE IS FINAL??? I NEED HELP WITH THIS... IT SAYS THAT HE CANT MAKE ANY CHANGES TO IT IN THE SUMMONS THAT WAS GIVEN TO HIM BUT I WANT TO KNOW HOW LNG UNTIL HE CAN CHANGE IT BECAUSE HE IS TRYING TO CHANGE IT NOW|||I am confused by your question. Although I think what you are asking if changes can be made to your insurance policy by either your husband or yourself prior to your divorce. My advice is sit down with him and your insurance agent and discuss the changes that you guys would like made, hopefully , you have a good insurance agent and they can act as a sort of mediator so that you guys both get what you want. I am in the insurance business and this is what I would try to do to help our cutomers.|||Call the car insurance and ask them, inform them of what he%26#039;s trying to do.|||Its a confusing question.
Is your ex canceling your insurance?
Is it costing you money?
Is it leaving you without insurance?
If it doesn%26#039;t affect you I doubt its very important unless the above questions are a %26quot;yes%26quot;.
If they are a %26quot;no%26quot;, I don%26#039;t see what the issue is.
After your divorced you%26#039;ll both have your own anyway.
Is your ex canceling your insurance?
Is it costing you money?
Is it leaving you without insurance?
If it doesn%26#039;t affect you I doubt its very important unless the above questions are a %26quot;yes%26quot;.
If they are a %26quot;no%26quot;, I don%26#039;t see what the issue is.
After your divorced you%26#039;ll both have your own anyway.
Changing Car Insurance Companies?
My husband %26amp; I recently got married and we are in the process of consolidating our car insurance. We want to switch from State Farm to Geico (which I currently have) however, he has already paid his 6 month premium. If we were to cancel his State Farm policy would they refund any of his premium for the months that he has not yet been covered? Does anyone know how this works?|||From what I know he will get a refund minus some admin costs|||most of time yes
and you know both of them are in the top highest insurance companies to have
look for a now name company wil save you hundreds a year
you seen the name before heard of name before its high and no better than any other truth brand|||Make sure he is on your Geico and covered, then call and cancel State Farm. You don%26#039;t want any time that he isn%26#039;t covered. State Farm will give you a prorated refund.
Congratulations on your recent marriage.|||Yes, he will get a pro rated refund
and you know both of them are in the top highest insurance companies to have
look for a now name company wil save you hundreds a year
you seen the name before heard of name before its high and no better than any other truth brand|||Make sure he is on your Geico and covered, then call and cancel State Farm. You don%26#039;t want any time that he isn%26#039;t covered. State Farm will give you a prorated refund.
Congratulations on your recent marriage.|||Yes, he will get a pro rated refund
I having a PA license, car registration and insurance and then changing your license to NJ legal?
I have a PA license, car reg and insurance, but I go to an NJ college that is denying me financial aid because nj records indicate that I have not lived in NJ. I have I just never changed my liscense back to NJ. Is it legal to just change my license to NJ but not change the car registration or insurance?|||It might just be easier to change everything to NJ, especially if you need to prove residency in order to qualify for instate financial aid. And if you get stopped, the police might wonder why your car is registered and insured in PA while your license shows NJ. A further incentive might be to see if the insurance for your car in Jersey might be cheaper than PA.|||what she said.... but his insurce would be higher in jersey as NJ has the one of the highest rates in car insurance..
if you need cheap NJ insurance.. try NJCure.com I have that and its mad cheap compared to the rest...|||If you go to obtain a license in another state, they will ask for a valid address in that state, which you would not have since you don%26#039;t live there.
And I%26#039;m not sure why a college in a neighboring state that I%26#039;m assuming you commute to would be denying you financial aid because you aren%26#039;t a resident of their state. They are probably charging you a higher rate of tuition which you could ask for an exemption for since I%26#039;m assuming you live close to state lines. And even if you change your license, your other records will indicate that you don%26#039;t live in NJ. You most likely don%26#039;t want to scam the FEDERAL government just to get a free ride in college.
Good luck.|||Yeah, I would suggest changing both to NJ. Even if you change one, they can still claim that you aren%26#039;t a resident because you haven%26#039;t changed the other.
if you need cheap NJ insurance.. try NJCure.com I have that and its mad cheap compared to the rest...|||If you go to obtain a license in another state, they will ask for a valid address in that state, which you would not have since you don%26#039;t live there.
And I%26#039;m not sure why a college in a neighboring state that I%26#039;m assuming you commute to would be denying you financial aid because you aren%26#039;t a resident of their state. They are probably charging you a higher rate of tuition which you could ask for an exemption for since I%26#039;m assuming you live close to state lines. And even if you change your license, your other records will indicate that you don%26#039;t live in NJ. You most likely don%26#039;t want to scam the FEDERAL government just to get a free ride in college.
Good luck.|||Yeah, I would suggest changing both to NJ. Even if you change one, they can still claim that you aren%26#039;t a resident because you haven%26#039;t changed the other.
Changing car gears when moving?
I am having car driving lessons, and i am encountering some difficulties with regards changing gears.i am feeling that i am too slow when i come to change gears, when it is on a flat road, it is ok in a way cos the car still keeps moving forward but when i am going up a hill or something, then i am not so quick and car starts going backwards!
They tell me i will learn since i am still in my second lesson but now i am panicking, i need some tips|||Second lesson? If you%26#039;re not stalling out almost every time you start, and lurching in first, you%26#039;re doing better than average. Panic time is when you can%26#039;t get it going fast enough to need to change gears - after 5 lessons.
Relax, and %26quot;become one with the car%26quot;. It%26#039;ll get so easy that you%26#039;ll probably hate driving an automatic - you have no control over the car.|||i assume that by when you say on the hill you start moving backward, you are at a stop and trying to begin moving. Hills may seem like your biggest enemy right now as you have just started. My advice is to get familiar with the clutch before doing hills just to make it easier on you and the car. Do not go to a hill and practice by continually trying to start especially if you are slipping the clutch which most people who are new will do if they do not stall on the hill. In short time you will know right where the clutch friction point is and hills will be 2nd nature.
No need to panic, it seems much harder than it is at first, and whoever is giving you lessons is correct to say that you will improve vastly.
Also you do not need to shift very fast, it will feel natural at a certain %26quot;speed%26quot; and thats just fine. Also make sure you have the clutch pedal pushed down fully during shifts and try not to remove depress the pedal too slowly after shifting.
Good luck and don%26#039;t worry!|||Learn to listen to the sound the car is making. It will tell you when you need to change gears. When you are going uphill or downhill just take your left foot and push down on the clutch and catch your next gear smoothly yet quickly. You will get the hang of it I promise. It just takes a lot of practice. I live in east TN and we have hills, hills and more hills. I always took my children in a 5 speed, stopped middle ways on a steep hill and made sure they could release the clutch and give it gas until they got up the hill. After many many tries they all learned to hold a car on a steep hill and never roll back an inch.
You can do it. Just keep practicing and practicing!
Good luck and have fun driving.|||When you first start to learn how to drive a manual transmission car, it may seem intimidating. After you%26#039;ve driven a few years, you%26#039;ll be able to engage the clutch really quick. Just keep practicing and don%26#039;t give up. Hills are fun to drive.|||If you are slow then practice up hill go faster before shifting. You cannot shift too fast the engineers thought of that decades ago.|||It takes practice and can be a problem for everybody when going slow, Automatics are better.
They tell me i will learn since i am still in my second lesson but now i am panicking, i need some tips|||Second lesson? If you%26#039;re not stalling out almost every time you start, and lurching in first, you%26#039;re doing better than average. Panic time is when you can%26#039;t get it going fast enough to need to change gears - after 5 lessons.
Relax, and %26quot;become one with the car%26quot;. It%26#039;ll get so easy that you%26#039;ll probably hate driving an automatic - you have no control over the car.|||i assume that by when you say on the hill you start moving backward, you are at a stop and trying to begin moving. Hills may seem like your biggest enemy right now as you have just started. My advice is to get familiar with the clutch before doing hills just to make it easier on you and the car. Do not go to a hill and practice by continually trying to start especially if you are slipping the clutch which most people who are new will do if they do not stall on the hill. In short time you will know right where the clutch friction point is and hills will be 2nd nature.
No need to panic, it seems much harder than it is at first, and whoever is giving you lessons is correct to say that you will improve vastly.
Also you do not need to shift very fast, it will feel natural at a certain %26quot;speed%26quot; and thats just fine. Also make sure you have the clutch pedal pushed down fully during shifts and try not to remove depress the pedal too slowly after shifting.
Good luck and don%26#039;t worry!|||Learn to listen to the sound the car is making. It will tell you when you need to change gears. When you are going uphill or downhill just take your left foot and push down on the clutch and catch your next gear smoothly yet quickly. You will get the hang of it I promise. It just takes a lot of practice. I live in east TN and we have hills, hills and more hills. I always took my children in a 5 speed, stopped middle ways on a steep hill and made sure they could release the clutch and give it gas until they got up the hill. After many many tries they all learned to hold a car on a steep hill and never roll back an inch.
You can do it. Just keep practicing and practicing!
Good luck and have fun driving.|||When you first start to learn how to drive a manual transmission car, it may seem intimidating. After you%26#039;ve driven a few years, you%26#039;ll be able to engage the clutch really quick. Just keep practicing and don%26#039;t give up. Hills are fun to drive.|||If you are slow then practice up hill go faster before shifting. You cannot shift too fast the engineers thought of that decades ago.|||It takes practice and can be a problem for everybody when going slow, Automatics are better.
Does somebody have experience in changing car carpet?
thanks firstly|||Are you replacing the molded carpet or just putting in a carpet.
If it is a new carpet molded to fit the car, you need to rmove all the seats before you put it in.
If it is just a carpet it will not mold to the humps and holes in the floor.|||i have tried, gave up and went to a upholstery|||first take out the seats then if you can tack out the old carpet take it out so you can use it as a patern if not tape so paper together so you can lay it out like you are laying the carpet and mark it with a marker then put it on the carpet and mark it you also need to take off the metal doors pieces which are screwed in cut it out put so glue on the back and replace it place side plates back on put seats back in|||i own a repair shop,and yes i have done a few restorations,and i wish i knew what you needed to know about it I%26#039;m sure i could help you with this one,all i can tall you is place it in there before you attempt to cut any off of it,if its a pre-molded set,for it,since you didn%26#039;t say i don%26#039;t know what you need to know,good luck.|||Yeah. All you really have to do is do it. Which means removing all the trim pieces that hold it--the seats of course--etc. Then just lift it up fold it up and out.
If it is a new carpet molded to fit the car, you need to rmove all the seats before you put it in.
If it is just a carpet it will not mold to the humps and holes in the floor.|||i have tried, gave up and went to a upholstery|||first take out the seats then if you can tack out the old carpet take it out so you can use it as a patern if not tape so paper together so you can lay it out like you are laying the carpet and mark it with a marker then put it on the carpet and mark it you also need to take off the metal doors pieces which are screwed in cut it out put so glue on the back and replace it place side plates back on put seats back in|||i own a repair shop,and yes i have done a few restorations,and i wish i knew what you needed to know about it I%26#039;m sure i could help you with this one,all i can tall you is place it in there before you attempt to cut any off of it,if its a pre-molded set,for it,since you didn%26#039;t say i don%26#039;t know what you need to know,good luck.|||Yeah. All you really have to do is do it. Which means removing all the trim pieces that hold it--the seats of course--etc. Then just lift it up fold it up and out.
What do you have to be careful about when changing a car CABIN filter?
I have been told several times you have to be careful about something, but I can%26#039;t remember what. I know once somebody didn%26#039;t close it up correctly and rain leaked in my passenger side floor.|||be careful not to rip your dash to all hell. put it back together the same way you took it apart. if you have bolts left over...u might have a prob. lol.|||It all depends on the model of car...which you didn%26#039;t mention. A lot of cars have the cabin filtration in the glove box behind a little door....it%26#039;s pretty simple to change it...open door, remove filter, replace filter, close door, close glove box. if your car has the filter in some obscure place look in your owner%26#039;s manual or if that fails go to a Pep Boys, Napa, or other large chain auto supply shop and ask them where it is...they have always been helpful for me when I have basic maintenance questions.
Should I get my car serviced before changing it?
Hi. I am about to change my car (a 6 year old Mercedes) and it is overdue a service by 600 miles. Should I get it serviced before offering it to a dealer for part exchange? Will not servicing it affect the part exchange or trade in value?|||You can see what they offer you without the service done, then see what they offer with the service done, bearing in mind is it the A or B service interval, as they can vary, as the A service can cost about 拢250 and the B service is about 拢399. So see if the price they offer out weighs the price of the service.|||no why waste cash doing the service, you will get the same price serviced or not, don%26#039;t forget its a buyers market.|||If you%26#039;ve been servicing the car in the past on a semi-consistent scale, then, why not? Pass the savings on to the next person who is going to buy your used car. Guaranteeing them a quality used car from a reputable business these days is a dying trend. Try and do your part in return for a car that has provided you, and seal the fact that your car has a serviced background. You might get a discount or provide a good sales point as well to the company you are going to trade it into? Good Luck...|||That would be a noble thing to do..but honestly, most reputable dealers will go thru the car and do an inspection and do minor services like oil changes, fluid fills ect before they put it up for sale. I wouldn%26#039;t waste your money. They arent going to give you anymore for it..|||No it will not get you back what it would cost and any dealer buying it would do it at their cost price which would be a lot less than you would pay.|||I wouldn%26#039;t bother, you%26#039;d never recoup the cost of a full M-B service as a trade in allowance.
How long can i go without changing my car oil?
I had my car since June. Last with a light came on and said need oil. So i put 2 things of oil in it. Today another light came on and it said i need to change my oil. I cannot currently afford an oil change, but i do need to use my car. I want to know how much longer can i go without changing the oil. My car is a 2003 Pontiac grand am if anyone needs to know.|||Refer to your owners manual to find the maximum oil change interval recommended by the vehicle manufacturer and then change it before that if you are using a cheap oil filter which will only remove about 35% of particles in the 10 micron range. But if you are using an OEM quality filter which removes about 70% of particles in the 10 micron range you can go to the maximum oil change interval recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. If you are using a premium oil filter such as the Mobil 1 oil filter or the Purolator PureONE oil filter which removes about 95% of particles in the 10 micron range you can go a little beyond the maximum oil change interval recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. The reason you can only go a little beyond the maximum oil change interval recommended by the vehicle manufacturer when using a premium oil filter such as the Mobil 1 oil filter or the Purolator PureONE oil filter is that they will become clogged with filtered particles and begin to restrict oil flow.|||well, how far you CAN go and how far you SHOULD go differ greatly.
I know a woman who went just over twenty thousand miles without changing it.She had to add some every 5k, but never had it changed.
There is absolutely no reason to go this long without changing it. For your car it should be changed a 3k, but has to be changed at 5k. Any driving after that is doing damage.If you can do it yourself it can be done for 14-15 dollars, if you cant do it yourself, learn to do it yourself.
If the light is on, it should have been done already.|||General Motors cars today have %26quot;Oil Use Monitors%26quot; on the dash of their cars. Basically it%26#039;s a computerized time and temperature monitor of the of the engine an motor oil. The absolute maximum mileage under the best conditions is 8,5000 miles. Best conditions would include all fast highway (trip) miles.
Not to be a wise guy but no more liquor, beer or candy till you get it changed within the next couple of weeks.|||To change your engine oil it will depend on the type of oil you use for the example
1. Fully synthetic engine oil can go up to 20,000 kilometers
2. Semi-synthetic engine oil can go up to 10,000 kilometers
3. Normal engine oil go up to 5,000 kilometers
I strongly advise you to change your engine oil frequently for every 5000 kilometers for any type of oil.
When the engine car light turn on, basically you have about 70~90 kilometers to go. Some cars more than than that and some cars less than that.
If you would like to get some tips on car just visit
http://car-info-guide.blogspot.com|||If you cannot afford $20-30 for oil changes, you cannot afford to drive a car. Oil changes is THE most important maintenance item of an automobile. Failure to change your oil at the very minimum of every 3 months will shorten the life of the engine.
|||You are over due. Change it now and use a lighter weight for winter..WalMart will do a change for you using Pennzoil at their special price...and they will vacuum out the interior. Keeping up the regular maintenance will result in the car lasting longer..treat it as your friend.|||get it done asap its the best 30.00 you will ever spend, in answer to your question you might go 5000 more miles but you need to add oil, this is not good for your car but it has been done, either change the oil soon or you%26#039;re going to be walking|||You change your oil every 3000-5000 miles, failure to do so will thicken the oil until it cannot flow, resulting in a broke engine.
Change the oil SOON, many places can do it for $20-$30.|||Oil is the life-blood on a car so this is not something I recommend delaying for any great length of time. Besides, oil changes are cheap ( lots of places advertise oil changes for around 20 bucks ) anyway.
I know a woman who went just over twenty thousand miles without changing it.She had to add some every 5k, but never had it changed.
There is absolutely no reason to go this long without changing it. For your car it should be changed a 3k, but has to be changed at 5k. Any driving after that is doing damage.If you can do it yourself it can be done for 14-15 dollars, if you cant do it yourself, learn to do it yourself.
If the light is on, it should have been done already.|||General Motors cars today have %26quot;Oil Use Monitors%26quot; on the dash of their cars. Basically it%26#039;s a computerized time and temperature monitor of the of the engine an motor oil. The absolute maximum mileage under the best conditions is 8,5000 miles. Best conditions would include all fast highway (trip) miles.
Not to be a wise guy but no more liquor, beer or candy till you get it changed within the next couple of weeks.|||To change your engine oil it will depend on the type of oil you use for the example
1. Fully synthetic engine oil can go up to 20,000 kilometers
2. Semi-synthetic engine oil can go up to 10,000 kilometers
3. Normal engine oil go up to 5,000 kilometers
I strongly advise you to change your engine oil frequently for every 5000 kilometers for any type of oil.
When the engine car light turn on, basically you have about 70~90 kilometers to go. Some cars more than than that and some cars less than that.
If you would like to get some tips on car just visit
http://car-info-guide.blogspot.com|||If you cannot afford $20-30 for oil changes, you cannot afford to drive a car. Oil changes is THE most important maintenance item of an automobile. Failure to change your oil at the very minimum of every 3 months will shorten the life of the engine.
|||You are over due. Change it now and use a lighter weight for winter..WalMart will do a change for you using Pennzoil at their special price...and they will vacuum out the interior. Keeping up the regular maintenance will result in the car lasting longer..treat it as your friend.|||get it done asap its the best 30.00 you will ever spend, in answer to your question you might go 5000 more miles but you need to add oil, this is not good for your car but it has been done, either change the oil soon or you%26#039;re going to be walking|||You change your oil every 3000-5000 miles, failure to do so will thicken the oil until it cannot flow, resulting in a broke engine.
Change the oil SOON, many places can do it for $20-$30.|||Oil is the life-blood on a car so this is not something I recommend delaying for any great length of time. Besides, oil changes are cheap ( lots of places advertise oil changes for around 20 bucks ) anyway.
Problems with changing car battery?
Prior to battery change, the car had to be boosted for it to start but otherwise started no problem. Took out old battery which was top mount. Replaced with new battery which is side mount but bought those adapters. Now there is power in that the lights and radio come on but the car won%26#039;t start. Tried boosting it but still nothing. It doesn%26#039;t even try to turn over. It is a 1998 Plymouth Neon. Does anyone have any idea what is wrong? Thanks - could use any suggestions.|||Make sure the new battery is fully charged. (slow charge for 12 hours). Then make sure those adapters are making good contact. If still nothing, have starter checked.|||Corroded connections between battery and stater.........! Wiggle the connection to the stater...at the starter.....I%26#039;ll bet it works.......................!
Good Luck.............!|||Make sure you didn%26#039;t buy too small of a battery in regards to amperage. Make sure the numbers are the same. Assuming they are, I would say that while connecting the new cables/adapters, you%26#039;re not making good contact so tear it apart and start over making sure you have good contact.|||This happened to a couple of older cars of mine, both 1993 cars. Check to see if the terminals are securely on the battery connections. What happened with me is they were on somewhat loosely and only the dash lights would come on, but the car wouldn%26#039;t turn over.
Something that helps with this is sand-papering the actual terminals to improve connection by removing deposits, etc. Since your battery is new I doubt it has much gunk on it but hey, it%26#039;s worth a try.|||check the smaller diameter positive wire that goes from the battery to the starter...some have inline fuses...others are fuseable link ...they show no apperent break but are made to melt inside the insulation...if it%26#039;s a fusealbe link wire that will need to be replaced|||Did you hook up the battery backwards?
Double check!!!|||Sounds like it could be your starter solenoid or even the starter itself. If the solenoid is bad, the battery won%26#039;t pass any current to the starter.
Does the starter solenoid click when you try to start the car? If not, that%26#039;s the part that%26#039;s shot.
You might want to consider replacing the starter at this point along with the solenoid. You%26#039;ve probably got about 100,000 miles on that vehicle? A rebuilt starter is probably ideal for that car.|||make sure to check all connections and make sure they are tight and not caked up with corrosion. there will be a ground that runs from the negative battery cable to the fender(the smaller black wire) make sure it is tight.make sure all your power cables are connected to the adapter or you can just take it back and get the correct battery or it could be a bad starter|||be sure all wire,s,connection,s are clean %26amp; tight.....be sure polarity is correct............didnt accidentially omit 1 wire while connecting positive adapter did you?...........check for power at the main terminal on the starter.......if it,s hot.......try jumping the solonoid......be careful engine may crank........if not.....change the starter.|||The most likely answer is the connection at your starter from the battery....Secondly check the ground wire.
Good Luck.............!|||Make sure you didn%26#039;t buy too small of a battery in regards to amperage. Make sure the numbers are the same. Assuming they are, I would say that while connecting the new cables/adapters, you%26#039;re not making good contact so tear it apart and start over making sure you have good contact.|||This happened to a couple of older cars of mine, both 1993 cars. Check to see if the terminals are securely on the battery connections. What happened with me is they were on somewhat loosely and only the dash lights would come on, but the car wouldn%26#039;t turn over.
Something that helps with this is sand-papering the actual terminals to improve connection by removing deposits, etc. Since your battery is new I doubt it has much gunk on it but hey, it%26#039;s worth a try.|||check the smaller diameter positive wire that goes from the battery to the starter...some have inline fuses...others are fuseable link ...they show no apperent break but are made to melt inside the insulation...if it%26#039;s a fusealbe link wire that will need to be replaced|||Did you hook up the battery backwards?
Double check!!!|||Sounds like it could be your starter solenoid or even the starter itself. If the solenoid is bad, the battery won%26#039;t pass any current to the starter.
Does the starter solenoid click when you try to start the car? If not, that%26#039;s the part that%26#039;s shot.
You might want to consider replacing the starter at this point along with the solenoid. You%26#039;ve probably got about 100,000 miles on that vehicle? A rebuilt starter is probably ideal for that car.|||make sure to check all connections and make sure they are tight and not caked up with corrosion. there will be a ground that runs from the negative battery cable to the fender(the smaller black wire) make sure it is tight.make sure all your power cables are connected to the adapter or you can just take it back and get the correct battery or it could be a bad starter|||be sure all wire,s,connection,s are clean %26amp; tight.....be sure polarity is correct............didnt accidentially omit 1 wire while connecting positive adapter did you?...........check for power at the main terminal on the starter.......if it,s hot.......try jumping the solonoid......be careful engine may crank........if not.....change the starter.|||The most likely answer is the connection at your starter from the battery....Secondly check the ground wire.
Hello dodge man, Further question about changing car carpet.?
I just bought a 1999 kIA Carnival, which is a 7 seat car. the carpet looks old. So I want to change the car carpet. I did some search in internet. some companies sell car carpet, but they do not have this model.
do you think i can buy unmoduled car carpet and lay it?
I am in south australia, adelaide|||yes they will have it ,i can give a web site that has it also ,but ts not hard to put in,you can go to www. acdorsett.com and they have it on there site that%26#039;s all they sell is carpet and mats,my wife owns a small upholstery shop,and she does carpet and seats all the time,they should have exactly what you need for it,if i was you id buy the molded its lot easier to work with especially on the hump areas in it,and its not that expensive either,you can order this from jc Whitney catalog at a pretty fair price also,,they will ship it to you in Australia also i guess its daylight there now,try acdorsett.com that should take you right to the site,my comp wont put it up as a link tonight good luck with it.|||thank you.
|||Well, I%26#039;m not Dodge Man and granted he is the king, but I may be able to help.
The answer is yes, you can buy regular carpet. Take the old carpet out and lay it on the new as a template. You may have to make a few additional cuts to make it fit since it%26#039;s not molded but it will work.
However... automobile carpets are pretty tough because they take so much localized abuse. They are also inorganic generally. Try to find a carpet that is polyester with a poly backing or you may have mold issues.
Best of luck to you, mate
***DODGE MAN... I THINK THAT IS THAT SUPPOSED TO BE ACSDORSETT.COM (WITH AN %26quot;S%26quot;)
do you think i can buy unmoduled car carpet and lay it?
I am in south australia, adelaide|||yes they will have it ,i can give a web site that has it also ,but ts not hard to put in,you can go to www. acdorsett.com and they have it on there site that%26#039;s all they sell is carpet and mats,my wife owns a small upholstery shop,and she does carpet and seats all the time,they should have exactly what you need for it,if i was you id buy the molded its lot easier to work with especially on the hump areas in it,and its not that expensive either,you can order this from jc Whitney catalog at a pretty fair price also,,they will ship it to you in Australia also i guess its daylight there now,try acdorsett.com that should take you right to the site,my comp wont put it up as a link tonight good luck with it.|||thank you.
Report Abuse
|||Well, I%26#039;m not Dodge Man and granted he is the king, but I may be able to help.
The answer is yes, you can buy regular carpet. Take the old carpet out and lay it on the new as a template. You may have to make a few additional cuts to make it fit since it%26#039;s not molded but it will work.
However... automobile carpets are pretty tough because they take so much localized abuse. They are also inorganic generally. Try to find a carpet that is polyester with a poly backing or you may have mold issues.
Best of luck to you, mate
***DODGE MAN... I THINK THAT IS THAT SUPPOSED TO BE ACSDORSETT.COM (WITH AN %26quot;S%26quot;)
Who all is changing rides in 09 and what car are they going to?
I know ryan newman, tony stewart,mark martin and joey lagono are getting new rides and I know what car #%26#039;s they are going to but who else is changing cars|||David Reutimann
2008: #44 UPS Camry
2009: #00 Aaron%26#039;s Camry
Regan Smith
2008: #01 DEI Impala SS
2009: #78 Furniture Row Impala SS
Clint Boywer
2008: #07 Jack Daniels%26#039; Impala SS
2009: #33 Cheerios Impala SS
Casey Mears
2008: #5 Kellogg%26#039;s/CarQuest Impala SS
2009: #07 Jack Daniels%26#039; Impala SS
Mark Martin
2008: #8 US ARMY Impala SS
2009: #5 Kellogg%26#039;s/CarQuest Impala SS
Patrick Carpentier
2008: #10 Valvoline Charger
2009: TBD
Ryan Newman
2008: #12 Alltel Charger
2009: #39 US ARMY Impala SS
Paul Menard
2008: #15 Menard%26#039;s Impala SS
2009: #98 Menard%26#039;s Fusion
Elliott Sadler
2008: #19 Best Buy Charger
2009: TBD
Tony Stewart
2008: #20 Home Depot Camry
2009: #14 Office Depot/Old Spice Impala SS
Reed Sorenson
2008: #41 Target Charger
2009: #43 TBD Charger
Bobby Labonte
2008: #43 Cheerios Charger
2009: TBD
Kyle Petty/Chad McCumbee
2008: #45 PE Charger
2009: TBD
Scott Riggs
2008: #66 State Water Heaters Impala SS
2009: TBD
Jeremy Mayfield
2008: #70 Haas Automation Impala SS
2009: TBD
Joe Nemechek
2008: #78 Furniture Row Impala SS
2009: TBD
AJ Allmendinger
2008: #84 Red Bull Camry
2009: #19 Best Buy Charger
JJ Yeley
2008: #96 Texas Instruments/DLP Camry
2009: TBD
David Stremme
2008: n/a
2009: #12 Alltel Charger
Joey Logano
2008: #02/#96 Home Depot Camry
2009: #20 Home Depot Camry
Scott Speed
2008: #84 Red Bull Camry
2009: #82 Red Bull Camry
Elliott Sadler
2008: #19 Best Buy Charger
2009: TBD
Additional Details:
Answer updated to reflect Reed in the #43 %26amp; Regan in the #78|||I think this one of the biggest silly seasons ever in NASCAR. Some changes are still yet to be determined, but here are all of the ones I can think of that have been revealed so far:
Tony Stewart to #14 for Stewart-Haas
Ryan Newman to #39 for Stewart-Haas
Mark Martin to #5 for Hendrick
Joey Logano to #20 for Gibbs
David Stremme to #12 for Penske
Reed Sorenson to #10 for GEM
A.J. Allmendinger to #19 for GEM
Casey Mears to #07 for RCR
Clint Bowyer to #33 for RCR
Scott Speed to #82 (was #84) for Team Red Bull
Paul Menard to #98 for Yates
Marcos Ambrose to #47 for JTG Daugherty Racing full-time
Max Papis to #13 for Germain Racing part-time
And just today, there was a new rumor out that Regan Smith will drive the #78 for Furniture Row. And Sam Hornish, Jr. could go back to the IRL with Elliott Sadler driving the #77 for Penske. Again, I think these are just rumors, or at least the Hornish to IRL one is. You can find the %26#039;09 rides here: http://www.jayski.com/pages/2009teams.ht鈥?/a>|||Fire Storm is dead on, subject to change. lol
This season is beyond silly; it%26#039;s about the stupidest one I%26#039;ve ever seen. We probably won%26#039;t know for sure who%26#039;s driving which car until right before the Daytona 500.|||nobody driving the 96 i thought shrader was|||also left out Bobby Labonte to 41?
and someone in 43|||David Stremme to #12 for Penske
Reed Sorenson to #10 for GEM
A.J. Allmendinger to #19 for GEM
Casey Mears to #07 for RCR
Clint Bowyer to #33 for RCR
Scott Speed to #82 (was #84) for Team Red Bull
Paul Menard to #98 for Yates
Marcos Ambrose to #47 for JTG Daugherty Racing full-time
Max Papis to #13 for Germain Racing part-time|||jeff burton is getting the cat sponser|||A.J. Allmendinger to the #19 Evernham Racing
David Reutimann switched from #44 to #00 Aarons
Casey Mears to the #07 RCR
David Ragan switched sponsors to UPS
Robby Gordon switched car brands to Toyota
Reed Sorenson to the #10 Evernham Racing
David Stremme to the #12 Penske Racing
Jeff Burton switched sponsors to Caterpillar
Clint Bowyer to the #33 still with RCR
Bobby Labonte to the #41Earnhardt/Ganassi
Ganassi merged with DEI and switched to Chevy
Marcos Ambrose to the #47 for JTG Daughtery Racing
Scott Speed to the #82 which was the #84 Red Bull Racing
Paul Menard to the #98 for Yates Racing
Max Papis to the #13 for Germain Racing
Regan Smith to the #78 Furniture Row Racing|||#5 to #07 Casey Mears
#8 to #5 Mark Martin
#41 to #10? Reed Sorenson
#(free agent) to #12 David Stremme
#20 to #14 Tony Stewart
#84 to #19 AJ Allemendinger (announced today)
#(rookie) to #20 Joey Logano
#07 to #33 Clint Bowyer
#12 to #39 Ryan Newman
#41 6 possible drivers
#43 3 possible drivers
#(free agent) to #44 Chad McCumbee
#19 to #77? Elliott Sadler
#(free agent) to #82 Scott Speed
#21 or #10 to #96 Ken Schrader or Scott Riggs
#15 to #98 Paul Menard
#(free agent) to #13 Max Papis
#01 to #78? Regan Smith|||Well Robby Gordon, who has had all in the past, Dodge, Chevy and Ford will now be in a Toyota.|||00 was 44, driven by Reutimann
#01 is no longer in existance
#5 Martin In, Mears Out
#6 AAA out, UPS in (sponsors)
#7 Dodge out, Toyota in (manufacturer)
#07 Bowyer out, Mears in
#8 no full sponsor, martin out, Almirola in
#10 Carpentier out, Sorenson in
#12 Newman out, Stremme in
#14 was 70, mayfield/sauter out, stewart in
#15 is no longer in existance
#19 Sadler out, Allmendinger in
#20 Stewart out, logano in
#22 no full time sponsor
#24 Nicorette out, National Guard in (sponsors)
#25 new car, Brad Keselowski in maybe probably not but you never know
#27 no full time sponsor
#28 no full time sponsor
#31 AT%26amp;T out, CAT in
#33 new car, Bowyer in
#38 no full time sponsor
#39 was 66, riggs out, newman in
#40 possibly driven by rookie clauson next season but unknown
#41 sorenson out, labonte/sadler in possibly
#42 Havoline out (sponsors)
#43 Labonte out, sadler/petty in
#44 was 45, McCumbee in
#45 is now the 44
#66 is now 39
#70 is now 14
#77 Hornish possibly out, Sadler possibly in
#82 was 84, Allmendinger out, Speed in
#87 rumors say Smith will drive this car in 09
#96 yeley/shrader out, coleman in (?)|||go to jayski.com/2009 team chart.it will give you info about all three series and it will tell you what cars everybody will be in.|||http://www.jayski.com/pages/2009teams.ht鈥?/a>
2008: #44 UPS Camry
2009: #00 Aaron%26#039;s Camry
Regan Smith
2008: #01 DEI Impala SS
2009: #78 Furniture Row Impala SS
Clint Boywer
2008: #07 Jack Daniels%26#039; Impala SS
2009: #33 Cheerios Impala SS
Casey Mears
2008: #5 Kellogg%26#039;s/CarQuest Impala SS
2009: #07 Jack Daniels%26#039; Impala SS
Mark Martin
2008: #8 US ARMY Impala SS
2009: #5 Kellogg%26#039;s/CarQuest Impala SS
Patrick Carpentier
2008: #10 Valvoline Charger
2009: TBD
Ryan Newman
2008: #12 Alltel Charger
2009: #39 US ARMY Impala SS
Paul Menard
2008: #15 Menard%26#039;s Impala SS
2009: #98 Menard%26#039;s Fusion
Elliott Sadler
2008: #19 Best Buy Charger
2009: TBD
Tony Stewart
2008: #20 Home Depot Camry
2009: #14 Office Depot/Old Spice Impala SS
Reed Sorenson
2008: #41 Target Charger
2009: #43 TBD Charger
Bobby Labonte
2008: #43 Cheerios Charger
2009: TBD
Kyle Petty/Chad McCumbee
2008: #45 PE Charger
2009: TBD
Scott Riggs
2008: #66 State Water Heaters Impala SS
2009: TBD
Jeremy Mayfield
2008: #70 Haas Automation Impala SS
2009: TBD
Joe Nemechek
2008: #78 Furniture Row Impala SS
2009: TBD
AJ Allmendinger
2008: #84 Red Bull Camry
2009: #19 Best Buy Charger
JJ Yeley
2008: #96 Texas Instruments/DLP Camry
2009: TBD
David Stremme
2008: n/a
2009: #12 Alltel Charger
Joey Logano
2008: #02/#96 Home Depot Camry
2009: #20 Home Depot Camry
Scott Speed
2008: #84 Red Bull Camry
2009: #82 Red Bull Camry
Elliott Sadler
2008: #19 Best Buy Charger
2009: TBD
Additional Details:
Answer updated to reflect Reed in the #43 %26amp; Regan in the #78|||I think this one of the biggest silly seasons ever in NASCAR. Some changes are still yet to be determined, but here are all of the ones I can think of that have been revealed so far:
Tony Stewart to #14 for Stewart-Haas
Ryan Newman to #39 for Stewart-Haas
Mark Martin to #5 for Hendrick
Joey Logano to #20 for Gibbs
David Stremme to #12 for Penske
Reed Sorenson to #10 for GEM
A.J. Allmendinger to #19 for GEM
Casey Mears to #07 for RCR
Clint Bowyer to #33 for RCR
Scott Speed to #82 (was #84) for Team Red Bull
Paul Menard to #98 for Yates
Marcos Ambrose to #47 for JTG Daugherty Racing full-time
Max Papis to #13 for Germain Racing part-time
And just today, there was a new rumor out that Regan Smith will drive the #78 for Furniture Row. And Sam Hornish, Jr. could go back to the IRL with Elliott Sadler driving the #77 for Penske. Again, I think these are just rumors, or at least the Hornish to IRL one is. You can find the %26#039;09 rides here: http://www.jayski.com/pages/2009teams.ht鈥?/a>|||Fire Storm is dead on, subject to change. lol
This season is beyond silly; it%26#039;s about the stupidest one I%26#039;ve ever seen. We probably won%26#039;t know for sure who%26#039;s driving which car until right before the Daytona 500.|||nobody driving the 96 i thought shrader was|||also left out Bobby Labonte to 41?
and someone in 43|||David Stremme to #12 for Penske
Reed Sorenson to #10 for GEM
A.J. Allmendinger to #19 for GEM
Casey Mears to #07 for RCR
Clint Bowyer to #33 for RCR
Scott Speed to #82 (was #84) for Team Red Bull
Paul Menard to #98 for Yates
Marcos Ambrose to #47 for JTG Daugherty Racing full-time
Max Papis to #13 for Germain Racing part-time|||jeff burton is getting the cat sponser|||A.J. Allmendinger to the #19 Evernham Racing
David Reutimann switched from #44 to #00 Aarons
Casey Mears to the #07 RCR
David Ragan switched sponsors to UPS
Robby Gordon switched car brands to Toyota
Reed Sorenson to the #10 Evernham Racing
David Stremme to the #12 Penske Racing
Jeff Burton switched sponsors to Caterpillar
Clint Bowyer to the #33 still with RCR
Bobby Labonte to the #41Earnhardt/Ganassi
Ganassi merged with DEI and switched to Chevy
Marcos Ambrose to the #47 for JTG Daughtery Racing
Scott Speed to the #82 which was the #84 Red Bull Racing
Paul Menard to the #98 for Yates Racing
Max Papis to the #13 for Germain Racing
Regan Smith to the #78 Furniture Row Racing|||#5 to #07 Casey Mears
#8 to #5 Mark Martin
#41 to #10? Reed Sorenson
#(free agent) to #12 David Stremme
#20 to #14 Tony Stewart
#84 to #19 AJ Allemendinger (announced today)
#(rookie) to #20 Joey Logano
#07 to #33 Clint Bowyer
#12 to #39 Ryan Newman
#41 6 possible drivers
#43 3 possible drivers
#(free agent) to #44 Chad McCumbee
#19 to #77? Elliott Sadler
#(free agent) to #82 Scott Speed
#21 or #10 to #96 Ken Schrader or Scott Riggs
#15 to #98 Paul Menard
#(free agent) to #13 Max Papis
#01 to #78? Regan Smith|||Well Robby Gordon, who has had all in the past, Dodge, Chevy and Ford will now be in a Toyota.|||00 was 44, driven by Reutimann
#01 is no longer in existance
#5 Martin In, Mears Out
#6 AAA out, UPS in (sponsors)
#7 Dodge out, Toyota in (manufacturer)
#07 Bowyer out, Mears in
#8 no full sponsor, martin out, Almirola in
#10 Carpentier out, Sorenson in
#12 Newman out, Stremme in
#14 was 70, mayfield/sauter out, stewart in
#15 is no longer in existance
#19 Sadler out, Allmendinger in
#20 Stewart out, logano in
#22 no full time sponsor
#24 Nicorette out, National Guard in (sponsors)
#25 new car, Brad Keselowski in maybe probably not but you never know
#27 no full time sponsor
#28 no full time sponsor
#31 AT%26amp;T out, CAT in
#33 new car, Bowyer in
#38 no full time sponsor
#39 was 66, riggs out, newman in
#40 possibly driven by rookie clauson next season but unknown
#41 sorenson out, labonte/sadler in possibly
#42 Havoline out (sponsors)
#43 Labonte out, sadler/petty in
#44 was 45, McCumbee in
#45 is now the 44
#66 is now 39
#70 is now 14
#77 Hornish possibly out, Sadler possibly in
#82 was 84, Allmendinger out, Speed in
#87 rumors say Smith will drive this car in 09
#96 yeley/shrader out, coleman in (?)|||go to jayski.com/2009 team chart.it will give you info about all three series and it will tell you what cars everybody will be in.|||http://www.jayski.com/pages/2009teams.ht鈥?/a>
Changing car title from two owners to one?
I have a car with a title that lists our name as John Doe, Peter Pan one after the other without any AND or OR. I am John Doe and listed as the primary owner. I have made all the payments to the financing company and also the insurance is in my name. The other owner is not in the country and there is no way I can contact him. I want to sell the car now. How can I sell the car or transfer the title to my name only. I reside in Atlanta, Georgia.|||There has to be a way to get ahold of the person and have them sign off on the title. If you can%26#039;t get them to sign off on it, then I am afraid you may be stuck. Obviously both names would need to sign off regardless of who paid for it. The other parties name is on it from the start - so to end it, they need to sign. Its pretty simple. If you can get ahold of them you can get a vehicle power of attorney and have them sign that, then you can sign the title over to the buyer. Make sure to attach that POA to the title when you sign. If you sign without their POA you could be charged with Forgery and also possibly theft.|||oh please this is so obvious that i cant mention it|||sign the other owners name to it yourself.|||Check with the dmv to see if you can put the title in your name only or sell that way.
Changing car stereo, but still want to use steering wheel remote?
I have a 2003 Scenic (99-2003 model) and want a new CD player, preferably with an input jack. Are there any models that will still allow me to use the remote control that is in the steering column? Thanks in advance.|||You would have to buy an adaptor wiring harness to be able to do that. Get advice on what would work with your car from a Halfords or a Car Audio specialist from the phone book.|||only ones made by renault|||No Jay there are many top name head units that will allow you some steering remote access if not all. I%26#039;ll brb I have to run up to my room to get a few catalogs. I%26#039;m sure but nothing pops out @ me right away. If you read this before I come back and answer tell me the price range you are looking for. Okay.
www.crutchfield.com they can answer all you car audio needs
www.crutchfield.com they can answer all you car audio needs
When changing car insurance companies, do you have to have your car certified? PLEASE ANSWER?
The car is already insured and has been for several years. I had in certified when I first got the car and it%26#039;s first insurance policy with me. I have moved and am in a part of the country my insurance company does not cover and am in need of a new company. Do I have to have my car inspected and certified by a mechanic before hand?
I asked this question in the proper section but no one answered. I know there will be someone here to see it that might know.
Thank you.|||No you don%26#039;t. You can just go get some insurance. love honey|||It all depends on the insurance company you choose and whether or not you are getting no fault or full coverage. If you are getting full coverage, then most likely the insurance company will want to look at the car to make sure there is no internal or external damage.|||I didn%26#039;t have to have mine certified when I moved and changed companies. and I have since moved again and didn%26#039;t do it.
I don%26#039;t know if it is something that certain insurance companies require, but I have not run into it|||You can Insure a hunk of crap! They will take you money!
If you already got it %26quot;certified%26quot; then why ask the question?
You need a clean title if it%26#039;s paid off. and your good!|||Hello,
You should be able to insure any car out there for the most part. I have heard of inspections, but doubt you would need to. I%26#039;ve never done it.
You should get multiple quotes and see what%26#039;s the lowest.....
A guy I ran into at my doctor%26#039;s office yesterday gave me a flier for insurance and the rate was much lower than what I am paying today. Like about $250/year lower or so.
I got like 5 quotes and they tell you the lowest company out of them all. Three of them were lower than mine. Best is that the company itself doesn%26#039;t sell the insurance; they just give you the info on who is the best price, so you know it is real. I would never use the numbers from a company that actually sells the insurance themselves, as I really don%26#039;t trust their numbers are reality (I am a skeptic, if you haven%26#039;t noticed).
Some of the quotes you get are from:
Progressive
Esurance
The Hartford
Safeco Insurance
Travelers鈥?and some others.
Here%26#039;s the link to the website on the flyer:
https://www07.answerfinancial.com/Primer鈥?/a>
You have to enter the code he gave me (he obviously gets some sort of credit for it. I tried to do this without the code and they wouldn%26#039;t let me....said that since they don%26#039;t advertise anywhere this was the only way they operate - they said the insurance was not going to be any higher going through this guy than if I could have gotten around him). If you knew someone else that sold this insurance I suppose you could ask them for their code so they would get the credit. The funny thing is the guy doesn%26#039;t ever deal with you, just gets the credit I guess.
Or you can call their number at 877-855-8111and give them the info:
or website and punch it in.
https://www07.answerfinancial.com/Primer鈥?/a>
Code TLG55 Name: Garland
Hope this helps!
Joe B.
I asked this question in the proper section but no one answered. I know there will be someone here to see it that might know.
Thank you.|||No you don%26#039;t. You can just go get some insurance. love honey|||It all depends on the insurance company you choose and whether or not you are getting no fault or full coverage. If you are getting full coverage, then most likely the insurance company will want to look at the car to make sure there is no internal or external damage.|||I didn%26#039;t have to have mine certified when I moved and changed companies. and I have since moved again and didn%26#039;t do it.
I don%26#039;t know if it is something that certain insurance companies require, but I have not run into it|||You can Insure a hunk of crap! They will take you money!
If you already got it %26quot;certified%26quot; then why ask the question?
You need a clean title if it%26#039;s paid off. and your good!|||Hello,
You should be able to insure any car out there for the most part. I have heard of inspections, but doubt you would need to. I%26#039;ve never done it.
You should get multiple quotes and see what%26#039;s the lowest.....
A guy I ran into at my doctor%26#039;s office yesterday gave me a flier for insurance and the rate was much lower than what I am paying today. Like about $250/year lower or so.
I got like 5 quotes and they tell you the lowest company out of them all. Three of them were lower than mine. Best is that the company itself doesn%26#039;t sell the insurance; they just give you the info on who is the best price, so you know it is real. I would never use the numbers from a company that actually sells the insurance themselves, as I really don%26#039;t trust their numbers are reality (I am a skeptic, if you haven%26#039;t noticed).
Some of the quotes you get are from:
Progressive
Esurance
The Hartford
Safeco Insurance
Travelers鈥?and some others.
Here%26#039;s the link to the website on the flyer:
https://www07.answerfinancial.com/Primer鈥?/a>
You have to enter the code he gave me (he obviously gets some sort of credit for it. I tried to do this without the code and they wouldn%26#039;t let me....said that since they don%26#039;t advertise anywhere this was the only way they operate - they said the insurance was not going to be any higher going through this guy than if I could have gotten around him). If you knew someone else that sold this insurance I suppose you could ask them for their code so they would get the credit. The funny thing is the guy doesn%26#039;t ever deal with you, just gets the credit I guess.
Or you can call their number at 877-855-8111and give them the info:
or website and punch it in.
https://www07.answerfinancial.com/Primer鈥?/a>
Code TLG55 Name: Garland
Hope this helps!
Joe B.
What to know when changing car in dash receiver?
i%26#039;m planning to buy a new receiver but don%26#039;t know anything about it...1. i have a 93 nissan maxima, 2. when buying a receiver what specs should i look for?, 3. what should i look out for when installing the receiver?, and 4. when i do get the new receiver is it ok to use the old speakers that came with the car?|||basically choosing a receiver is up to you. look for what you want such as the features(ipod/bluetooth,dvd,mp3) the main specific is just make sure the radio you get is not over size for your car such as double din. I have seen what kind of radio fits in your car pretty much anything should be good as long as you don%26#039;t get a double din radio. But as far as regular radios you will be OK and in dash any where from 5 to 7inch screens you will be OK. even a 1 din in dash will be OK. Also you will need a car stereo install kit and a wiring harness to make the install quick and easy. The speakers wise I would change them out to aftermarket speakers. Depends the stock speakers in the car have paper cones which deteriorate over time bad causing distortion and cracking. then with a new radio it will up the bass a bit causing these speakers to go worse quicker.So i would upgrade and you don%26#039;t have to spend that much either. You can probably get all around pioneer for less than 100 bucks just look around you know. here are few websites for radios and car speakers
www.woofersetc.
www.onlinecarstereo.
www.millionbuy.com
www.woofersetc.
www.onlinecarstereo.
www.millionbuy.com
Do you touch car shock absorbers when changing car springs?
I recently got new front springs put in my car and now im having problems going over bumps (banging noise) I took it back to the garage and they said i need new shock absorbers. I never had any problems like this before i changed the springs. Could it be caused by changing the springs? Would the garage have touched the shock absorbers when changing the springs and maybe damaged them?|||Depends on the make and model of you car?Most cars have struts,which is the shocker is in the centre, and the road spring is fitted onto it.May not have been reassembled properly?Look for any leaks as shockers have oil in them?A second opinion would also help you.Hope this helps|||The nut that hold the springs on is connected to the front Shock absorbers so they must have touched them!
That doesn%26#039;t mean to say the shocks were damaged by the mechanics though!|||They might have touched them, but there%26#039;s very little they could do to sabotage them in any way. A regular problem with car%26#039;s is... When you repair the weakest part, the next weakest part breaks, and so on.
Why did you need new springs ? Apart from actual metal fatigue breakage, I%26#039;ve never needed to replace one.
Can you get a second opinion anywhere ?|||The shock is a great solid metal tube so %26quot;touching%26quot; it wont damage them unless they took them off and maybe bent them on purpose in a vice or threw them around the place, they are pretty sturdy items and quite solid, being they take the weight of your car and yourselves all the time touching them will not damage them.
Unless the springs are not fitted back on correctly i would suggest the problem was both the shocks and the springs at the time and both actually needed changing...you can change the spring without changing the shock most of the time but eventually the shocks will go for all the weight they carry.
That doesn%26#039;t mean to say the shocks were damaged by the mechanics though!|||They might have touched them, but there%26#039;s very little they could do to sabotage them in any way. A regular problem with car%26#039;s is... When you repair the weakest part, the next weakest part breaks, and so on.
Why did you need new springs ? Apart from actual metal fatigue breakage, I%26#039;ve never needed to replace one.
Can you get a second opinion anywhere ?|||The shock is a great solid metal tube so %26quot;touching%26quot; it wont damage them unless they took them off and maybe bent them on purpose in a vice or threw them around the place, they are pretty sturdy items and quite solid, being they take the weight of your car and yourselves all the time touching them will not damage them.
Unless the springs are not fitted back on correctly i would suggest the problem was both the shocks and the springs at the time and both actually needed changing...you can change the spring without changing the shock most of the time but eventually the shocks will go for all the weight they carry.
Can you get a ticket for changing car parts in the street?
I%26#039;m planning to change a radiator on a car and i am wondering if i can do it in the street.|||It depends on where you live, but I would assume you can. I know if you leak coolant most places around here will cite you and make you pay to get the street and sewers cleaned, and that isn%26#039;t cheap. If you have the option I would do it in a driveway or look for a garage to rent. Around here you can rent a garage for working on cars for very little money. |||sure you can|||no idea never tried it|||Depends on where you are in the street......I would avoid all fire hydrants, and any roads that do not have any curbs. You could be ticketed for blocking a roadway.|||Most places won%26#039;t ticket you for relatively minor work like changing a radiator, but you might get popped for polluting the storm sewers with anti freeze if you%26#039;re not careful.|||Best check your local city ordinances. In my town, the wording is something like %26quot;routine maintenance%26quot; is allowed, radiator replacement sounds a bit more than that. If any of your neighbors have a beef against ya, this might be an opportunity for them.|||of course you can. the only parts you cant put are like extreme neon lights, really dark tints, etc |||You can in my home town in Illinois|||Changing a radiator involves draining fluids. It would be illegal, just changing the oil or the transmission fluid would be, in most cities, because of the possibility of the stuff getting into the storm drains, amongst other reasons.||| you%26#039;ll get run over
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